'Humbling and incredible': Paul Leonard reflects on The Forest Side’s five AA Rosettes
The Forest Side in Grasmere has joined elite company after being awarded five AA Rosettes, a milestone head chef Paul Leonard described as 'incredible' for the whole team.
Background
Unlike many chefs, Paul did not come from a culinary family; his parents were both nurses. Originally from Hull, he studied at Hull College and took his first jobs in local hotels before moving to London for his “first test of proper cooking” at Pétrus under Marcus Wareing.
His career then took him north, working at the Feversham Arms in Helmsley, followed by a move to the Lake District as senior sous chef at The Samling. He went on to join Restaurant Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles as sous chef, before stepping into his first head chef role at the Isle of Eriska, where he retained the restaurant’s Michelin star throughout his tenure.
Paul later became head chef at the Devonshire Arms at Bolton Abbey, before taking the helm at The Forest Side in November 2019. Since then, he has developed a menu that embodies the heart of Cumbrian cuisine, rooted in foraging, sourcing locally, and working closely with farmers, fishermen, and artisans across the region.
Read more: 1 Michelin Star Chefs: Paul Leonard, head chef, Forest Side
At The Forest Side, Paul has crafted a menu that embodies the heart of Cumbrian cuisine. The restaurant’s ethos aligns perfectly with his approach: foraging, sourcing locally, and working closely with farmers, fishermen, and artisans in the region.
With a farm-to-fork mentality, he has developed a menu that changes frequently to reflect the seasons, showcasing ingredients like wild herbs, game, and Lake District vegetables. This dedication to local sourcing has allowed Paul to create dishes that are not only flavourful but also deeply rooted in the land.
The monumental achievement
Speaking to The Staff Canteen shortly after the AA announcement, Paul reflected on the journey, the restaurant’s evolving identity and the responsibility that now comes with the AA’s highest accolade.
He said: “Incredible is the word that comes to mind. For a week on, it’s still not really sunk in. We live in our little bubble in Grasmere… We try and just do what we do and work to our own standards, our own ethos. When something like this comes along, which is incredible recognition, it’s a little bit like, we must be doing something right.”
What the inspectors saw: identity, consistency and confidence
Asked what he believed the inspectors recognised, Paul pointed to a clear sense of self built over several years.
He said: “I’d like to think they saw consistency and a bit of a journey. We’ve grown, you can really see that it’s got a bit of an identity and I’d like to think that’s played a big role in it.”
The kitchen’s guiding principle is straightforward: cook the seasons and honour relationships with suppliers.
Paul added: “We don’t follow trends. We just basically follow seasons and cook what’s in season, use the relationships with our suppliers and mould it into The Forest Side food.”
Crucially, Paul felt the team’s growing assurance has translated onto the plate and into the dining room.
He said: “I feel as though the last two years I’ve been a lot more confident in my own skin of what we’re doing at The Forest Side. Anyone who’s cooking with confidence, you can see it in the end product - with morale in the kitchen, the guest atmosphere, and ultimately the food as well.”
Five rosettes vs. the Michelin star: different, but equally cherished
The Forest Side also holds one Michelin star, recognition Paul cherishes alongside the new rosettes.
He said: “I think they’re both different. We cherish our star - it’s a worldwide recognition of excellence. We respect and appreciate them both just as much as each other and we’re super grateful to be awarded them.”
However, five rosettes places the Lake District restaurant among an elite group - a reality that is both thrilling and sobering.
He added: “It means the world. It puts us alongside some absolute legends of the industry, really humbling and incredible. But we also know that we’ve got standards to keep now. We know we’re at a place where people will be looking at us now… and we’ve got to deliver one hundred and ten percent every time.”
The moment The Forest Side felt like home
The pull of The Forest Side proved wildly successful.
He said: “We admired The Forest Side and when the opportunity came up, we took it with both hands and I guess the rest is history. We’re six years in and I feel as though the journey’s just getting started. I’m super happy with where we’re at. We’re building the team and an ethos… doing it quite organically. We’re not rushing into anything; we’re letting things build and making sure the food we’re cooking is consistent.”
‘You can’t do anything without the team’
For Paul, the award belongs to the whole house.
He added: “You can’t do anything without the team. I’m super lucky - there’s two people in our kitchen who have been with me from day one at The Forest Side. That’s Phil, our pastry chef, and Niall, my sous chef. That backbone gives you the stability that’s needed to cook at this level.”
Alongside that core, he credited a hungry young brigade, adding: “We’ve got a group of young lads, they bring passion, questions - it’s quite inspiring. They make you think, they look at slightly different trends and it really makes it a collective food we produce.”
Recognition also extended beyond the pass.
He explained: “It’s not about the team we’ve just got now. Everyone who’s worked at The Forest Side - front of house, kitchen porter, or in the kitchen - they’ve all played a part in getting us to where we are now. And it comes from the top as well: Andrew Wildsmith, the owner, and Alasdair Elwick, the general manager. It’s easy as a chef to take the credit… but that’s not really my style.”
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