'Sometimes you let it lie fallow before something new takes root'

Harriet Mansell is a leading figure in the food scene, celebrated for her creative use of wild and seasonal ingredients and strong commitment to sustainability.

She is the chef behind Lilac, a much-loved natural wine bar and restaurant in Lyme Regis, and previously opened Robin Wylde, both known for their thoughtful approach to local, foraged produce and minimal waste.

In 2020, Harriet reached a wider audience when she also competed on BBC Two’s Great British Menu, representing the Southwest.

Now, Harriet announced that Lilac will permanently close in August later this year.

She told The Staff Canteen: “Lilac was meant to be our kind of funky little sister venue to Robin Wylde – it was born out of necessity really. We were trying to find creative ways to use up some of the by-products and waste from Robin Wylde, and Lilac became that solution.

“The idea was to make Robin Wylde more sustainable and also create more local jobs. It was never supposed to be a main restaurant. But then it just became its own thing – it evolved into something much bigger than we originally imagined.”

“I think that’s the beauty of Lilac – it had this sort of natural evolution, very organic. People loved it, and so we allowed it to grow into itself. And now, after three years, it feels like it’s had a beautiful life cycle. I’m proud of what it’s become.”

“We’ve quietly amassed quite a lot of awards over the years, and I feel really proud of that – not for me, but for the team. 

“We won a Trencherman’s Award last year for creativity and innovation, and we’re always featured in the Good Food Guide, Michelin Guide and the SquareMeal Top 100.

“It’s a successful business. It’s been hugely popular here in Lyme Regis. And that’s not just down to me – it’s a testament to the people who’ve worked in that building over the last three years. They’ve made it what it is. I’ve been lucky to work with some incredibly talented and passionate people.

 “It’s easy to overlook just how much we’ve achieved in a relatively short time. We’ve done things differently, and people noticed, that means a lot.”

After the success driven from both restaurants, Harriet added: “There’s this idea in hospitality – maybe in life generally – that you’ve got to keep pushing, growing, expanding. But I don’t believe that has to be the only way. I think there’s also power in knowing when to stop. In choosing to stop.

“We’re not closing Lilac because it failed – far from it. It’s done really well. But success isn’t just about staying open forever. Sometimes, success is knowing when to bow out gracefully. Just because something is going well doesn’t mean it has to go on and on. That’s not always sustainable either – emotionally, creatively, or physically.”

“This feels like the right moment. I’ve always believed in seasonal change – not just in food, but in life. This is a new season.

Harriet’s future plans are yet to be announced but the talented chef did mention a location change to Devon to embark on a new project, adding: “We’ve all learnt and grown so much personally, professionally and spiritually.

“I’m excited to see what the next chapter holds – for the space, for the team and for me.

“We’ve planted something beautiful here – and just like the best gardens, sometimes you let it lie fallow before something new takes root.”

Written by Abi Kinsella