Matt Wilkinson Returns to Restaurant Ownership With New Melbourne Trattoria Roma

Matt Wilkinson has spent much of his career building kitchens that reflected a clear point of view.

From Pope Joan to Lazerpig, his restaurants combined technical discipline with an approach that prioritised flavour, accessibility and consistency over formality. Now, he is stepping back into ownership.

Matt will join Roma, an upcoming Melbourne CBD trattoria, as chef and co-owner, marking his return to building and leading a kitchen from the ground up.

For chefs watching the industry closely, the move represents more than a new opening. It reflects a broader shift in how experienced chefs are reshaping their careers.

Returning to the Foundation of Restaurant Work

Ownership changes the relationship between chef and kitchen. Executive chef roles carry authority, but ownership carries responsibility for the entire system. Every decision, from staffing to suppliers to service structure, directly affects the viability of the restaurant.

For chefs who have already led established kitchens, returning to ownership allows them to rebuild those systems deliberately.

Matt has operated within both models. His previous venues, including Pope Joan, developed strong followings and distinct identities. Those kitchens were defined not by complexity, but by clarity. Food was grounded in technique, but designed to be repeatable. Systems supported the brigade rather than relying on individual effort.

That approach aligns closely with the operational reality of a trattoria.

Why the Trattoria Model Appeals to Experienced Chefs

Trattorias operate differently to fine dining restaurants. Menus are typically tighter. Techniques are refined, but service is structured around consistency rather than progression or theatrics. The model rewards discipline and strong brigade systems.

For chef-owners, that structure offers stability.

Consistency is easier to maintain when the menu is focused. Staffing becomes more sustainable. Regular customers replace occasional destination diners. The kitchen operates with rhythm rather than volatility.
Many experienced chefs are now moving toward this model, prioritising longevity over scale.

Matt’s move into Roma reflects that shift.

Building a Kitchen From the Beginning

Opening a new restaurant requires building every system from scratch. Brigade structure, prep workflow, supplier relationships and service pacing all need to be established before the first service begins.
For chefs, this is where leadership has the greatest impact.

Kitchens built deliberately tend to operate more efficiently. Expectations are clear. Standards are established early. The brigade develops within a defined structure rather than inheriting fragmented systems.

This process also creates opportunities for younger chefs. New kitchens require full brigades, and experienced chef-owners often shape the next generation through those teams.

Matt’s return to ownership places him back in that role.

Ownership as a Career Progression

Across Australia, more experienced chefs are stepping into ownership or partnership positions rather than remaining solely in executive chef roles. The shift reflects both practical and professional considerations.

Ownership provides control over creative direction, staffing and operational decisions. It also creates long-term investment in the success of the restaurant.

For chefs who have spent years developing their craft and leading teams, ownership represents a natural progression.

Matt’s decision to join Roma as chef and co-owner places him within that movement.

A Kitchen Still Taking Shape

Roma is currently in its pre-opening phase, with systems, structure and brigade still being assembled. These early stages will define how the kitchen operates long after opening.

For chefs, this period represents the most important stage in a restaurant’s lifecycle. Decisions made now shape consistency, culture and performance.

Matt returns to ownership with experience gained across multiple kitchens and operating models. That experience will now inform Roma’s foundation.

Before the first service begins, the kitchen is already being built.