Paul Welburn to open Cornish restaurant following Michelin star success
Paul Welburn has announced his triumphant return to the dining scene - but this time, it’s in Cornwall.
Best known for his time at The Oxford Kitchen where he earned a Michelin star and built a reputation for refined, modern British cooking, Paul has also worked in some of the UK’s most acclaimed kitchens, including stints under Gary Rhodes and at Rhodes Twenty Four. He gained wider recognition as a finalist on Great British Menu in 2014, showcasing his creative flair and ability to balance nostalgia with technical skill.
Now, after years in city-based fine dining, Paul is carving out a new chapter with Fern, a restaurant in rural Cornwall designed around balance - between family and food, between seasons and sustainability, between destination dining and local community.
Family over familiarity
Speaking about why he moved to Cornwall and how the project came about, Paul explained: “I was kind of hoping I could find something that would fit with what I want going forward, be that food style, location and balance of life. My main reason to come to Cornwall was because of having a young family, so it was a change of life for us. I wanted to find something where I wouldn’t end up being more in the kitchen than at home, but could still do the kind of food I’ve been known for.
"By chance I was put in contact with someone locally who had been trying to open this restaurant for about a year. They couldn’t quite get it over the line before, but when I walked into the space and saw the glass walls looking out towards the Camel Valley, I thought: wow, this has so much potential. Straight away I felt it was the right fit. That’s where Fern came from – the idea of something green, evolving, growing, and a restaurant that can develop over time.”
Balancing Seasonality and Local Trade
On the challenges of operating in a seasonal region, Paul said: “Cornwall is very seasonal, but the restaurant is actually based in a little village near Bodmin, so it’s not hyper seasonal. You won’t have just summer trade. What we’re trying to create is a local vibe, a local reputation to draw people in year-round. In the summer, locals who don’t want the hustle and bustle of the beaches can come here, and in the winter, when the coast is quieter, hopefully we’ll be busier. I think it’s about creating a balance of winter and summer, and this location gives us that.”
A Unique Space in Cornwall
Reflecting on the restaurant’s striking setting, he described his first impressions: “The restaurant has this annex built on the delivery yard and farm, looking out over the edge of the Camel Valley. It’s all glass, so in the winter you’re almost looking out at the elements, and in the summer it’s filled with beautiful sunshine and views. It just felt like an amazing space with so much potential. I think that balance of the seasons, in such a setting, makes Fern quite unique.”
A Different Kind of Opening
Comparing Fern to his previous projects, Paul noted: “Unlike previous openings I’ve done in London, Birmingham and Oxford, where you’re often waiting on building work or delayed by finishing the site, here everything is about 95% done. It’s just mobilising now. The big thing is finding staff – a team that is engaged and excited about the project and can buy into what I believe this place could be in six months to a year’s time. We’ve missed the summer trade, but that’s probably perfect. We can open in what’s classed as the quieter season, build the restaurant up at the end of the year and then be ready with a strong platform for summer.”
Fern’s Dining Style
Explaining the scale and food concept, he said: “It’s about 35 to 40 covers inside, plus around 20 on the terrace overlooking the views, so about 55 to 60 in total. We’ll open Thursday through Sunday, lunch and dinner, which helps with quality of life for the team. We can always add events or guest chef nights on the closed days without overstretching. That way I can always be present, driving the place and making sure the vision moves forward. The style will be a mixture of small plates, large plates and sharers. That’s been done across the country, but not in this area, especially inland Cornwall. It won’t be fine dining with tasting menus - it’ll be more refined dining, relaxed but slick, focusing on premium produce and chefs doing the hard work.”
Adding Character with Brewing and Bar Space
He also revealed plans to introduce something extra for guests: “We’re also hoping to have a little microbrewery attached. The owner has been experimenting with small-scale brewing and in time we’d love to showcase those beers in the bar. The bar itself isn’t the main focus, but it’s there as a holding area, somewhere to have a cocktail before dinner or a digestif after. With the glass front, log burner and the sliding doors opening onto the terrace in summer, it will feel like part of the restaurant space - warm in winter, open and airy in summer.”
Becoming Part of the Cornish Food Scene
Looking ahead, Paul said his aim is to contribute to the region’s hospitality rather than compete with it: “I’ve been waiting five months to find the right site, and this ticks the boxes. I’ve got to know the Cornwall dining scene and respect what chefs here are doing. Fern isn’t about competing with them - it’s about adding something different. We’re not on the coast, so we’re not focusing on seafood. We’re not a pub either, so we won’t clash with places nearby. I want Fern to enhance the Cornish food scene, to become another destination for people to visit, without taking away from what already exists. It’s about finding the right place for my food, and I think Fern will fit nicely into that.”
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