The Fat Duck alumni: The originals – era of innovation

When Heston Blumenthal opened The Fat Duck in Bray in 1995, few could have predicted how profoundly it would reshape British cooking.

Behind that transformation was a small, fiercely committed team — chefs who embraced Heston’s philosophy of curiosity, precision and playfulness.

Between 1996 and 2009, they helped define a culinary movement that would make Bray one of the most recognised fine-dining villages in the world.

Building the Foundation (1996–2005)

When The Fat Duck first opened, it was a modest village restaurant serving French-inspired dishes. Heston’s vision — to understand the “why” behind every flavour, texture and sensation — soon demanded a team who shared his drive for experimentation.

Garrey Dawson joined in 1996 as head chef, working side by side with Heston as the restaurant grew in confidence and reputation. Together with a small kitchen brigade, they refined the early tasting menu and oversaw the milestones that followed: the first Michelin star in 1999, a second in 2001, and a third in 2004.

That period saw the introduction of dishes that would become emblematic of The Fat Duck’s identity — creations such as snail porridge and bacon & egg ice cream.

Garrey left the restaurant in 2005 after helping secure its third star and went on to lead the award-winning Henne Kirkeby Kro in Denmark.

Ashley Palmer-Watts – From Commis to Creative Leader

In August 1999, Ashley Palmer-Watts walked through the doors of The Fat Duck as a young, ambitious chef.

He quickly proved indispensable — meticulous in execution, calm under pressure and aligned with Heston’s relentless standards.

Within a few years, Ashley became head chef, helping guide the restaurant through its rise to international acclaim and the formalisation of its multi-sensory tasting menu. By 2009, he was executive chef for The Fat Duck Group, then chef director for Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London and later in Melbourne.

He now leads The Devonshire Soho, a London pub-restaurant that has become one of the city’s busiest and most talked-about venues.

Dominic Chapman - part of the early brigade

Dominic Chapman joined The Fat Duck in 1998, one of just four chefs in the early brigade. Working closely with Garrey Dawson and Heston Blumenthal, he helped establish the kitchen’s rhythm and discipline as the restaurant transitioned from local curiosity to global name.

In 2004, Dominic returned to Bray to lead The Hinds Head, translating The Fat Duck’s precision into a more traditional British pub format. He later headed The Royal Oak at Paley Street, where he earned a Michelin star and three AA Rosettes, before opening The Beehive in White Waltham in 2014.

In 2023, Dominic launched Restaurant Dominic Chapman in Henley-on-Thames, where he continues to champion refined British cooking.

He also runs The Crown at Burchett’s Green.

Mary-Ellen McTague – Research, History and The Hinds Head Connection

Joining The Fat Duck in 2002 as a chef de partie, Mary-Ellen McTague quickly became known for her calm precision and fascination with culinary history.

By 2005 she was sous chef, and a year later she moved into research and development for The Hinds Head, exploring centuries-old British recipes and techniques.

Her work helped inspire a broader conversation around historical food within The Fat Duck Group.

After leaving in 2006, she returned to Manchester, opening The Creameries — a restaurant that celebrated sustainable, locally sourced produce, before closing in 2022.

Mary now runs Pip, also in Manchester, which in 2025 was added to the Michelin Guide.

• Read more: The birth of The Fat Duck
• Read more: The science of taste - Heston Blumenthal and Harold McGee

Duncan Ray – Pastry and The Riverside Brasserie

Duncan Ray joined The Fat Duck in 1998/99 and became part of the small team working across sections, eventually focusing on pastry.

In 2003, he was asked to head The Riverside Brasserie at Bray Marina — a move that expanded The Fat Duck Group’s reach while maintaining its standards of excellence.

Duncan went on to open The Little Fish Market in Hove, where his single-menu dining format earned him a Michelin star.

Jonny Lake – The Bridge to a New Generation

Jonny Lake joined The Fat Duck in 2005, rising to head chef in 2009 and later executive chef. He played a pivotal role during the restaurant’s Melbourne relocation in 2015 — one of the most ambitious moves in fine-dining history — before returning to Bray to reopen The Fat Duck with its three stars intact.

Jonny’s time at Bray was defined by quiet leadership and scientific precision. His curiosity-driven approach continues at Trivet, the London restaurant he co-founded with sommelier Isa Bal.

They also opened wine bar Labombe at the COMO Metropolitan in London.

James “Jocky” Petrie – Development and Discovery

Jocky Petrie joined The Fat Duck in 2002, first in pastry and later in the development kitchen, where his precision and inventive mindset thrived.

He led the experimental arm of the restaurant from 2009 to 2013, a period that saw the refinement of The Fat Duck’s most celebrated dishes and multi-sensory experiences.

After senior roles with Gordon Ramsay Restaurants and Studio Ramsay Global, he returned to Bray in 2024 as global culinary director of The Fat Duck Group.

The early Fat Duck years were about more than recipes — they were about redefining how a kitchen could think. From experimenting with the sound of the sea to exploring how nostalgia shapes flavour, the restaurant’s philosophy was born from asking questions few others were asking.

Each of the chefs who passed through that kitchen carried a piece of that culture with them — into pubs, Michelin-starred restaurants, and new ventures around the world.

Together, they formed a network of alumni whose influence still stretches far beyond Bray.