James Henry brings Le Doyenné’s discipline to Bessie’s for a two night fire led takeover

Australian chef James Henry, co founder of Le Doyenné outside Paris, will return to Sydney on 6 and 7 January for a two night takeover of Bessie’s in Surry Hills.

It is a rare meeting of two distinct kitchens. One is built around a working farm and regenerative agriculture. The other is built around fire, rhythm and Mediterranean warmth. For chefs, it is a chance to watch a technically restrained and detail driven voice work inside a venue known for its bold, generous style.

James: a chef shaped by clarity and constraint

James’ career has been defined by sharp turns rather than gradual shifts. Early cooking at Raes on Wategos and Cumulus Inc gave him a foundation in produce respect and clean flavour. Paris refined the rest. At Au Passage, James became known for food that appeared simple but relied on instinct, timing and an ability to strip dishes back without losing depth. Bones, which followed, pushed this even further. It was a small, intense bistro where a handful of elements on a plate carried significant technical load.

That philosophy came into full focus at Le Doyenné, the farm restaurant he runs with fellow Australian Shaun Kelly. The restaurant sits on the grounds of Château de Saint Vrain and is built around a farm that supplies the kitchen daily. It is known for regenerative practices, orchard plantings and a broad range of heirloom vegetables and fruit varieties grown specifically for the restaurant. Critics have highlighted the discipline behind the menus, which often read simply but rely on precision, seasonal understanding and a deep connection to the land.

Bessie’s: a venue defined by fire and momentum

Bessie’s in Surry Hills operates on different energy. The restaurant’s identity comes from its large wood fire grill and oven, which drive both the kitchen and the dining room’s atmosphere. It is a space built for movement. Chefs work close to the flame, service moves around heat and immediacy, and the menu draws from Mediterranean influence with an Australian sense of generosity.

The team behind Bessie’s, part of Goodies Hospitality, has created a venue where fire is a tool rather than a trend. Vegetables, seafood, whole cuts and sauces all move through the grill at some stage, shaping the backbone of the menu. The flavour profile is bigger, broader and more expressive than James’ typical cooking. This contrast is what makes the collaboration worth studying.

How James fits into Bessie’s fire

The takeover will feature a seasonal set menu developed within Bessie’s existing structure. Without the farm he normally relies on, James will choose ingredients based on availability rather than cultivation, which shifts the balance of control. What remains consistent is his discipline. Texture, heat control and clean flavour remain the foundation.

For chefs, the interest lies in adaptation. How does someone who cooks with produce grown metres from the stove respond when the distance becomes kilometres. How does James use Bessie’s fire to mirror the concentration he normally achieves through farming. Seeing a chef with his precision step into a kitchen that demands physical speed and immediate decisions offers insight into the universality of technique.

Fire cooking requires instinct. James’ cooking has always relied on intuition, but usually in a quieter environment. Bessie’s will amplify that instinct, placing him in a setting where heat dictates timing as much as produce does. This tension between discipline and momentum is where the most compelling ideas often appear.

A chef series shaping Sydney

The takeover is part of the Goodies Hospitality Chef Series, which has already hosted St John and Andy Hearnden. The intent behind the program is clear. Bring in strong culinary identities, place them inside Bessie’s fire driven structure and create a space where chefs can watch philosophies collide in real time.

For Sydney, these collaborations contribute to a broader shift. The city’s dining scene is filled with talent, but exposure to contrasting frameworks including farm led cooking, nose to tail work, fire based kitchens and regional techniques sharpens the industry’s collective skill set. James’ return adds another perspective to that evolution.

A short residency with potential ripple

James’ time in Sydney will be brief, but two focused nights can influence more than a menu. Young cooks may see new ways to simplify plates without losing detail. Head chefs may rethink sourcing and flavour progression. And Bessie’s gains a moment where its fire first identity meets the restrained, farm centred approach of one of Australia’s most respected exports.

It is a collaboration defined by contrast, and that contrast is exactly what gives it value. James brings clarity, structure and agricultural thinking. Bessie’s brings heat, generosity and rhythm. Together, they offer a lesson in how different kitchens can sharpen one another.