James Higgs on earning respect, building culture and leading with consistency

When James Higgs was named WA Good Food Guide Chef of the Year 2026, his first reaction was surprise.

Not because he doubted the work, but because he had always associated awards like that with chefs operating at a level above his own. As messages from peers and colleagues started arriving, the recognition became less about the award itself and more about knowing the values he had built his career around had been noticed by people who understand the job.

“I was both surprised and humbled to receive the award,” James says.

“My focus is always on the job at hand. So to receive this as a result of that work, I felt was a good indication that the values I have, the food I deliver and the way I run my kitchen have been noticed and appreciated by others.”

Nearly a decade after joining Lulu La Delizia, James has become one of the key figures behind one of Western Australia's most respected Italian restaurants. The award may be new, but the work behind it has been building for years.

Growing into the role

James joined Lulu in 2017. The industry was different then, and so was his role within the kitchen. Over time, he has grown with the restaurant, moving from proving he could do the job to understanding how to lead people properly.

“When I first started at Lulus it was a very different time and a very different industry,” he says.

“It’s certainly been an amazing journey over the past almost decade.”

What has stayed the same is the kind of kitchen he wanted to help build.

“When I reflect back I’m proud of the fact that my goals to create an environment that chefs want to work in hasn’t changed, even if how I’ve gone about building it has shifted over the years.”

Taking charge of the kitchen brought its own challenges. Like many chefs stepping into leadership roles, James had to learn how to balance his own expectations with what the team needed from him.

“At first it was a big step and I felt the pressure to show, to myself and others, that I could do it and that failure wasn’t an option,” he says.

“As time has gone on, whilst my values and goals have remained steadfast, I’ve learnt to be more adaptable as to how I go about achieving them.”

His standards have not softened, but his understanding of how to get the best from people has changed.

Building a kitchen people want to work in

Long before Lulu, James was already forming ideas about what a good kitchen should feel like. Early in his career he worked under a Japanese chef named Tetsuya, whose approach left a lasting impression.

“He was always firm but fair,” James says.

“He would give his time to teach you properly, but always expected you to be able to maintain the standard that was set. The discipline he maintained in his kitchen has stayed with me my whole career.”

Later, Joel Valvasori, chef and owner of Lulu La Delizia, became a major influence on his development.

“Joel has been a massive driving force behind my own progress through the kitchen,” James says.

“He holds himself to high standards and expects that others around him will hold themselves to the same level.”

Over time, that idea became one of James’ defining priorities. Not just building a successful kitchen, but building one that chefs wanted to be part of.

“It’s been a real pleasure to take what had been started and build it into my own environment, where the values I have are a big part of the culture.”

Ask James about standards and he quickly starts talking about people. For him, the two are closely linked.

“I try my best to support my team to make sure they’re achieving their own personal goals whilst upholding the standards that are expected of us,” he says.

“By structuring the core team with the right people it has made working towards the end goal a much more enjoyable and achievable process.”

That thinking extends beyond service and into the wider culture of the kitchen.

“I believe that having a healthy working environment makes the kitchen run smoother in all aspects,” he says.

“Looking after the team always results in a better outcome for the customer as well as making it easier to get everyone working towards the same goals and standards.”

Consistency without standing still

Lulu has built a strong identity over the years, and maintaining that standard every service requires more than good intentions.

For James, consistency is about having enough structure to protect the standards while still giving chefs room to work in the way that gets the best from them.

“It has not always been a straightforward process to meet the expectations in front of us at Lulus,” he says.

“From an operational perspective there are systems that I have set up to enforce the standard that is set to be a non-negotiable, but each particular chef has the freedom to choose how they work best to achieve that.”

A structured onboarding process helps establish those expectations from day one and gives chefs confidence as they develop.

“Building consistency takes time,” James says.

“Some of the values that I’ve found helpful include leading by example, maintaining a disciplined, respectful yet lighthearted environment and setting the tone from day one.”

Consistency is often discussed less than creativity, but James sees it as one of the foundations of a successful kitchen.

Protecting Lulu's identity

Nearly a decade into his time at Lulu, James understands that evolution only works if guests still recognise what made them fall in love with the restaurant in the first place.

The restaurant still serves dishes that have been on the menu since day one. Those anchors help maintain familiarity, even as the menu evolves around seasonal produce and new ideas.

“Part of how we balance this is by maintaining a few menu items that have never left the menu since day one,” he says.

“It helps to keep the menu familiar no matter what else is being served.”

When new dishes are developed, they still need to feel like Lulu.

“A lot of it comes down to taking the new ideas or creative directions and making them fit into our existing framework or genetics,” James says.

“This helps keep the food familiar and easily identifiable as a Lulus dish whilst still being something new or unique.”

That approach also shapes how he thinks about modern Italo-Australian cooking.

“There is certainly a focus on tradition and how to respect it whilst doing something new or unique,” he says.

“We have such unique and wonderful produce here that adapting that and putting it through a traditional Italian lens makes something quite unique.”

The food may look simple, but James believes simplicity only works when it is backed by technique, restraint and strong produce.

Respect is earned over time

As James’ role has grown, so has his understanding of leadership. He is open about the fact that he is still learning, particularly when it comes to managing different people while maintaining standards.

“There’s always something new to learn, to discover or to improve upon,” he says.

“Understanding how to create an environment in which everyone can thrive, while maintaining a high standard of food for the guest, is always a challenge.”

For younger chefs, James believes patience remains one of the most valuable qualities they can develop.

“I think a lot of young chefs need to learn patience and perseverance,” he says.

“With lots of people it comes across as this drive to climb the ladder as fast as possible, which is admirable, but learning how to trust the process and invest in the foundations can be challenging to convey.”

He is not against broad experience, but he believes there is something to be said for commitment.

“Showing commitment to a team, business, chef or mentor is something that can be more rewarding than just assuming that the grass is greener at the next venue.”

That thinking sits behind his definition of what makes a respected chef.

“I feel as though becoming a respected chef is about so much more than just your ability to cook,” he says.

“In all levels of the kitchen the right attitude, mentality and ethic is appreciated just as much as one’s ability to cook.”

“You could be an exceptional cook but terrible to work for or with and that will come at a cost. Whereas those who may not be the most technically competent but always give their best, are pleasant to work with or for and are pushing themselves are always respected more at the end of the day.”

Nearly a decade after joining Lulu, the recognition James has received reflects more than the food coming out of the kitchen. It reflects the culture, standards and consistency behind it.

In an industry often focused on what comes next, his approach remains remarkably straightforward: build strong foundations, look after people and let the work speak for itself.