Latest pub project is 'the opportunity of a lifetime' for Dom Chapman

Despite being in the hospitality industry for more than 30 years, the passion for the job shows no signs of wavering for chef Dom Chapman.

Formerly of renowned establishments such as The Fat Duck, The Beehive and The Royal Oak Paley Street, Dom has elevated The Crown at Burchetts Green to one of the best pubs in the country, as demonstrated by it placing number 22 in this year’s Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs list.

And now he is set to add another pub to his portfolio, teaming up with respected restaurateur Nigel Sutcliffe at The Jack O’Newbury, in Binfield, Berkshire.

“It’s amazing, this is the opportunity of a lifetime, it’s unbelievable,” Dom enthused in an interview with The Staff Canteen.

“It was one of five or six village pubs in Binfield and slowly most of them have shut, so with The Jack reopening, it will become the third pub in the village again. They are all very different.

“At The Jack, the old building is still there, but it has been completely gutted and rebuilt. But as an add-on, there’s a huge conservatory leading onto a patio and garden, an outdoor events, barbecue and pizza space, barbecue areas, and beautiful gardens with herbs and flowers.

“There are also 11 bedrooms. There is an old skittle alley and an old barn which have been turned into bedrooms.

“We want it to feel relaxed, but offering really lovely food that people understand.”

Reuniting with Nigel Sutcliffe after The Fat Duck days

Dom and Nigel first crossed paths when at The Fat Duck 25 years ago, where Dom was a chef and Nigel director, working closely with Heston Blumenthal during the restaurant’s early days.

Having stayed in touch, they are now launching the revamped Jack this summer, with a tentative June opening date.

“Nigel and I worked together many years ago,” explained Dom.

“We would see each other in London, in Bray, in Marlow, and we stayed in touch. We’d had those passing conversations about whether there might ever be something we could do together.

“Then this opportunity presented itself and Nige called me and said: ‘right, do you want to do it?’

“And I said: ‘too right’.

“We then met the owner, who is an amazing guy. He loves supporting start-ups and people, and he has spent an absolute fortune on this place.

“No expense has been spared. Everything has been thought through and professionally designed, from the interiors to the kitchen.

“The kitchen itself was designed by James Lee. James died this year, which was incredibly sad. This was probably one of the last kitchens he designed. It’s amazing.”

Dom added: “I’ve been involved for maybe 18 months.

“For Roger, the owner, this was originally meant to be a nine-month project, but it has become a four-year one, because it has grown from a pub redevelopment into this much bigger operation with bedrooms, walled herb garden, outdoor spaces and plans for a wildflower meadow.

“We want to try and drive the sustainability as much as possible.”

Dom Chapman’s vision for the food at The Jack

When it comes to designing the menu, for Dom it is relatively simple – food that people want to eat. Although he does admit there is a balance to be struck when it comes to price point, as he will not compromise on quality of ingredient.

“I want it to be a proper pub menu, but done really well,” said Dom.

“I want to do the best fish and chips in the area, loads of steaks, salads, pasta dishes – nice, tasty grub that people want to eat.

“Hopefully it will not be at ridiculous prices, but that is obviously quite tough because of the current market.

“But it needs to be a relaxed space which is amazing. The kit-out honestly, it’s like wow, this place is unbelievable.

“If we get it right, it’s going to be amazing.”

He added: “It is keeping things seasonal, clean and fresh, and not overcomplicating them.

“It’s all about the produce. I want to speak to my fish supplier in the morning and see what is good that day, whether that is oysters, cockles, sea bass or turbot. Then it is the same with meat, working with butchers I’ve known for years and using great pork, lamb, kidneys or calves’ liver.

“It is things people understand, British classics is what I want to build this thing on.

“It’s all about having a genuine love for what you do and understanding the ingredients.

“Simple food is not actually as simple as everybody likes to say it is.

“It’s about really tasty, properly cooked food in a relaxed pub environment. It needs to be somewhere people feel comfortable.

“It’s one of those places where you walk in and just think: wow.”

He added: “There are loads of options around here, but there’s nowhere like this.

“I’ve been involved around this area for a long time. The USP here is the rooms. This is a beautiful pub people can travel to from London or elsewhere, stay over and enjoy walks around the grounds. You’ve got deer and ponies next door. It’s a beautiful area.

“A lot of pubs are brewery-owned and in dire need of a refurb, but people haven’t got the money to do that. So we are in a lucky position, really. People are drawn to comfort and luxury.”

Why hospitality still drives Dom Chapman after 30 years