I would not have done it! What is exciting in chocolate cuisine is the challenge it represents: how to create cohabitation between chocolate and a savoury ingredient knowing that the chocolate has to stay the protagonist of the dish, but also be at the service of the savoury ingredient it comes with. The hardest is to create complicity between the ingredients in order to generate pleasure and emotion.
There are dishes I am experiencing for the past 12 years and still did not manage to get right. It is very exciting because it means that there is still a lot to do.
Why do you enjoy working with chocolate?
To me, chocolate is one of the most versatile ingredients in pastry, it is my Arturo Brachetti!
Chocolate is like clay or marble for an artist, it gives me a whole pallet of possibilities. The different techniques create completely different dishes and the wide range of Valrhona couvertures gives endless possibilities. For example, since the launch of Dulcey Blond Chocolate, I can work with four colours.
What top tips do you give young chefs about using chocolate, when they come to your cookery school to learn the tricks of the trade?
Precision, precision and passion
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By its complexity chocolate is as technic as aromatic. A Valrhona Grand Chocolat is elegant and delicate, it is through our technic and gastronomic culture that we learn to respect it and sublime it in recipes.
Is chocolate an ingredient that could be used more if people had the confidence to use it?
Chocolate technic can be very scary for young pastry chefs, it is almost like a science. Although because it is so precise, it can also make it easier: Once you know the good practices, you just have to follow them!
Finally, what is your favourite chocolate dish when you are feeling indulgent?
Jivara Risotto, smoked pork and star anise is my favourite dish. This is why I chose to feature it in the menu for the dinner at the Shangri La. Although this time I decided to use the latest milk chocolate launched by Valrhona: Bahibe 46%, pure origin milk chocolate from Dominican Republic. Because it is on the edge of dark chocolate which brings a nice bitterness although its creaminess brings a wonderful velvety texture to the dish.