World's first three Michelin-starred plant-based restaurant to start serving meat

Eleven Madison Park, a New York restaurant celebrated for becoming the first in the world to earn three Michelin stars for an entirely plant-based menu, is making a significant change.

From October 14th, the restaurant will continue to offer its signature plant-based menu but will also serve select dishes featuring animal products, including fish, meat, and its iconic honey-lavender-glazed duck.

The move marks a shift from the all-or-nothing approach adopted when the restaurant reopened in 2021 following the pandemic. At that time, chef-owner Daniel Humm and his team committed to removing all animal products from their fine dining menu - a creative leap and a statement on climate responsibility.

In a previous article with The Staff Canteen, Daniel reportedly said in a speech that his life's work would now be "to make plant-based food delicious, magical and luxurious," for the sake "of our planet and our health."

The restaurant’s commitment to plant-based dining was hailed as groundbreaking, and in 2022, Michelin recognised Eleven Madison Park with its highest accolade for the entirely vegan menu - a moment Daniel described as “unimaginable.”

However, after five years of guest feedback, Daniel says the team realised the approach, while meaningful, also had limitations.

THE ANNOUNCEMENT

A post on social media read: "When we reopened Eleven Madison Park in 2021, emerging from lockdown, we vowed to rebuild differently: craft a meal every bit as transporting as before without a single animal product. The decision was a creative leap and a climate imperative.

"Post-pandemic, it seemed like EMP was destined for a new milestone. Change is fundamental to who we are and how we grow. In this respect, we have to change to stay the same.

"This change, though, felt different. The announcement ignited a debate that transcended food, something we hadn’t prepared for. This naïveté proved to be an asset, and without it, I may not have had the courage to forge this path.

"My team and I felt liberated and cracked open. The journey proved richer than any before.

"We created a new culinary language: mille-feuille without butter, meringue without eggs, almond-milk ricotta,

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sunflower butter, koji stocks, whipped cashew cream, even “land caviar.” We drew inspiration from food cultures we had previously overlooked. We furthered our pursuit of vegetables and launched our own ‘Magic Farms’ upstate.

Three Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park, New York

"In 2022 Eleven Madison Park became the first restaurant in the world to earn three Michelin stars for an entirely plant-based menu. Michelin wrote the rulebook of luxury dining, and to be decorated by the very guardians of tradition was something unimaginable. It felt like walking on water.

"Over the last five years, with each season and new menu that we’ve been serving, we’ve also been intently listening to our guests' feedback.

"It became clear that while we had built something meaningful, we had also unintentionally kept people out. This is the opposite of what we believe hospitality to be.

"The all-or-nothing approach was necessary to develop our expertise, but that too, comes with its own limitations. As a chef I want to continue to open paths, not close them.

"As I approach my 20th anniversary at EMP, I’ve decided it’s time for change again.

"Starting October 14th, we will integrate our new language into a menu that embraces choice. We will offer a plant-based menu, of course, but also select animal products for certain dishes — fish, meat, and yes, our honey-lavender-glazed duck.

"Eating together is the essence of who we are, and I’ve learned that for me to truly champion plant-based cooking, I need to create an environment where everyone feels welcome around the table.

"I’m deeply grateful to our team and guests for supporting this journey. It’s you who allow us to grow."

The announcement has caused a wave of controversy online.

One user commented: "Everyone is welcome except for the animals where they are gonna be eaten now 🙂 I am removing this restaurant from my bucket list. The dream was nice while it lasted but thought this place followed ethics of compassion."

Another wrote: "Mr. Humm, bringing animals back onto the menu is disappointing. As an influential chef, it’s your responsibility to set an example, not to give in to pressure. This choice betrays your values and consistency, and will disappoint many who saw you as a role model."

Written by ABi Kinsella

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