Celery Leaf Parfait with Cream Cheese Ice Cream by Tommy Banks

Tommy Banks

Tommy Banks

4th April 2018

Celery Leaf Parfait with Cream Cheese Ice Cream by Tommy Banks

⁣SERVES 4

Equipment: ice-cream machine

I am not a fan of rich chocolatey desserts, which is
convenient as I usually have a bounty of vegetables that need a home.
Celery and cheese are often served at the end of a meal and it is a good combination.
Using celery in desserts is something I really enjoy – the savoury taste makes for a dish that is not too sweet. By the autumn, the celery has large dark
green leaves which have a strong irony flavour, but with the addition of sugar they are flavoursome and aromatic.

ROOTS by Tommy Banks, 5th April 2018, hardback, £25, Seven Dials

Ingredients

  • ⁣For the ice cream:
  • 7 egg yolks
  • 70g caster sugar
  • 15g glucose
  • 225ml whole milk
  • 100ml whipping cream
  • 130g cream cheese sea salt
  • For the parfait:
  • 5 egg yolks
  • 60g caster sugar
  • 20g glucose
  • 1 gelatine leaf, soaked in cold water
  • 75ml celery leaf oil
  • 100g cream cheese
  • 100ml whipping cream
  • For the apple gel:
  • 4 granny smith apples
  • 2g agar-agar
  • 1–2 pinches citric acid
  • To serve:
  • 25g blanched hazelnuts
  • 25g flaked almonds
  • 25g pumpkin seeds
  • 25g buckwheat vegetable oil sea salt

Method

⁣Make the ice cream by whisking the egg yolks and sugar by hand in a bowl until pale and creamy. Combine the glucose, milk and cream in a
saucepan and bring gently to the boil. When boiling, pour the hot mixture over the eggs, whisking constantly. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and, stirring constantly, cook until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Place the cream cheese in a jug blender with a decent pinch of salt and process
slowly to loosen it. Pour in the hot mixture gradually until it is all smooth and combined. Strain the ice cream through a fine sieve into a fresh bowl and
stir over iced water to cool down. Churn and freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Put the egg yolks for the parfait in the bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and start whipping on full speed. Line a
deep 20 x 20cm roasting tin with baking parchment. Put the sugar and glucose in
a small saucepan and attach a sugar thermometer. When the yolks are starting to
look very pale and foamy, heat the saucepan and cook until the mixture reaches
121°C/250°F. At this point, and with the mixer still running, stream the hot
sugar mixture down one side of the mixer bowl onto the yolks. Squeeze the
excess water from the gelatine and add it to the hot mixture in the bowl, and
continue to whip until it is cool enough to touch. Stream in the celery leaf
oil, and then add the cream cheese and continue to mix until fully
incorporated. In a separate bowl, whip the cream to soft peaks and then fold
this into the main mixture with a rubber spatula. When the cream is thoroughly
incorporated, transfer the mixture to the prepared roasting tin and place in
the freezer for about 4 hours to set. Also freeze a chopping board for
portioning the parfait. When it is set, cut the parfait into slices and return
to the freezer until ready to serve.
Next, make the apple gel. Quarter the apples, leaving the
skin on, and feed them through a juicer. Let the juice sit still for 30
minutes, then carefully scoop the foamy layer of scum from the surface. Measure
215ml of the juice into a small saucepan, whisk in the agar-agar and a pinch or
two of citric acid to taste. Bring the pan briefly to the boil to activate the agar-agar.
Remove from the heat to
let the juice cool and set to a firm gel. When it has set,
attack it with a hand-held blender and keep going until you have a very loose
and smooth, fluid gel. Strain this through a fine sieve, transfer to a piping
bag and refrigerate.
When almost ready to serve, chill four serving plates and
preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/Gas mark 3. Roughly break up the hazelnuts in a
mixing bowl with the end of a rolling pin and add the almonds, pumpkin seeds
and buckwheat. Stir in a tiny drop of oil, season with salt and spread out on a
baking sheet. Bake in the oven for about 10 minutes until the mixture is
lightly toasted, then spread on kitchen paper to absorb any excess oil. When
the serving plates are cold, add slices of celery leaf parfait and cover with
the nuts and seeds. Serve with a scoop of cream cheese ice cream. Pipe on dots
of the apple gel and serve immediately.