12 Chefs of Christmas, day 6

As part of The Staff Canteen’s 12 Chefs of Christmas, we’re unwrapping how chefs across the UK celebrate the season in and out of the kitchen.

For Tom Shepherd, Christmas Day itself is sacred.

Whether he’s cooking turkey for his staff or a full feast for both sides of the family, Tom Shepherd treats Christmas with warmth, tradition and a genuine love of bringing people together - even when he wants nothing to do with sprouts.

He said: “We’re not open on Christmas Day. From the moment we opened the business, it was a beeline for me to make sure we closed during that period - I’m a dad, and I want to spend that time with my family and my daughter.”

In the build-up, though, Upstairs by Tom Shepherd has its own traditions.

Tom added: “We always cook the staff Christmas dinner on our last working day. We put options in the WhatsApp group - turkey, beef - and everyone chooses. I cook it with all the trimmings, and we sit down together after lunch service. We do Secret Santa just before the final service. It’s a really special time.”

Bringing the festive spirit into the menu

The restaurant’s festive feel comes from subtle seasonal cues, not gimmicks.

He added: “We don’t add tinsel or wrap dishes in Christmas paper. We just follow the seasonal changes - using things like cranberry in sauces or ketchup. On the pastry side we might do something influenced by mince pies. And from December 1 the Christmas tree goes up, along with a few festive visual touches so it looks and feels like Christmas.”

Christmas at home

“It’s magic,” Tom said. “It always has been. Even as a child it was my favourite time of the year.”

Christmas revolves around family, he explained: “We see as many family members as we can - loads of them live close. People come round for a drink or breakfast, then we have a proper traditional lunch. I normally cook - always roast turkey, a second meat

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like beef, and we just enjoy being together. It’s an amazing time of year.”

Highlights of the year - and what’s next

Tom added:“The highlight of this year is that we’ve been full. It’s been a tricky year for hospitality, but Upstairs has remained full the whole year. We’ve grown as a business and as a team.”

“Looking ahead, we’re launching the rooms at Upstairs next year, and we’re negotiating downstairs as well. There are some big moves. I’m hoping for more of the same - growth and success.”

Quick-fire festive questions🎄

Sprouts – yes or no?
“No.”

What dish or ingredient defines the season for you?
“It has to be turkey.”

What’s one ingredient you couldn’t run Christmas without?
“Roast potatoes… and gravy. You just can’t have Christmas without roast potatoes.”

Favourite festive drink?
“Baileys - just over ice, at the end of the meal while watching whatever’s on telly.”

Dream Christmas dinner guest to cook for?
“My nanny and granddad. I never got to cook Christmas dinner for them.”

What’s your best or worst Christmas kitchen story?

Worst: “We had beef on the menu for Christmas. The sous chef set it to cook overnight like we always did - but the oven malfunctioned. On Christmas morning the beef was completely black. We had to go to the supermarket, buy whole cuts, and roast them - and the sous chef overcooked those too.

"The head chef said we could only serve well-done beef. We ended up cooking steaks to order for people who’d pre-ordered roast beef. It was awful.”

Best: “I haven’t worked many Christmases, but at home the best thing is cooking for as many family and friends as we can. It’s a great excuse to get everyone together.”

Three words that sum up Christmas for you?
“Presents. Happiness. Booze.”

written by abi kinsella

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