ready?
Claire thought we were not on the market for long enough; we were not pushing our name enough. So in the meantime we got the second Star - the business was getting really good and we wanted to stay in Ludlow a bit longer. I needed to come to London once a month because I love that buzz; I love the traffic jams! One summer I had come to see a friend at Arbutus; working in his restaurant; the buzz of the street - I said to Claire "I think it is time for us to do it!"
Again, it was a huge risk. You had a successful business. Hibiscus had a fantastic reputation in Ludlow; two Michelin Stars and to up-sticks and move into London, where, as you have already identified a very, very saturated market of very good restaurants is a high risk.
Yes, it is but it is like profession. I am sure one day in your life you decide to change what you are doing because you were not happy. I don't think it was just the business, or the money, you have to be happy if you want to be good in your job. And I was going there just to be a day to day job. Ludlow was half the staff - one day you can move forward; the next day you can not. I didn't want to be stuck there. I wanted to be able to appoint a Head Chef, like I have now, I have Marcus (McGuinness) so if my daughter is sick (or whatever) here so I don't always need to be here and can be with her. To give you an example at Ludlow, when Claire was giving birth to Paige - I dropped Claire at the hospital; went and did the service and met her after service. I didn't want to do that again.
It's crazy.
You can't run a business like that, it's very hard on those that do!
Yes, it ends up as your life.
That's right. And I love it"¦ it is my life, but you can't have a business where you think I have been here 30 years and I have never left my kitchen"¦ that is not really a business.
Yes.
It's not fair; it's not normal. And then you get so focused on it that you are not moving forward. You find yourself stuck in a routine; it's not healthy. It's not healthy for business; not healthy for a job that I love doing.
So, you have been in London 2 years?
2 ½ years.
You must have opened just before the recession, then?
We opened in October 2007.
And we entered what has been described as the worst economic climate in 60 years.
Yes, and touch wood we are still open (Laughter).
So was it about surviving during that difficult period?
I think what saved us was that we were a new thing. And by being a new thing people were coming to see what we were doing. The first year was not too bad. We got a Rising Two Star after we opened in January.
What did the critics say when you first came to London?
The journalists, they had heard about Ludlow; they had heard about Hibiscus; the expectations were massive but they never came to us because it was too far away. I think the only ones that came to see us was Jan Moir and Matthew Fort, they took the time to come and see what we were doing but all the others never had a clue what we were about. So they came here and they said "What is that; what's this all about" And I had never changed my style"¦ I said "I am sorry, but I do what I do" If you couldn't be bothered to go to the countryside to see what people like me are doing then, I am sorry, that is not my problem.
But it is dangerous. A lot of people will read the Times and the Independent and it is dangerous, to a degree, what they can write.
Yes, it is very dangerous. And I can always remember after an article in the Evening Standard.
What was that by Faye Maschler?
Yes. It was a night when all the critics were at the table. Guy Simmons, I think he was from Time Out, he gave us 6 out of 6 - we were the first restaurant in London ever to get it; Terry Durack gave us a fantastic review; Faye Maschler destroyed us.
She is renowned for being tough?
Yes, she's tough. She knows what she likes. She is a really good journalist but my big problem with journalists is that you open the door - my first service, when we opened the door; the first person sitting at a table was a journalist - how can you judge a restaurant on the first day!! Or even the first week! I couldn't afford to open for the first two weeks and fill it with friends and family - you can't do it! That is my problem with journalists - they don't give you a chance.
But the main thing is to have confidence in what you are doing?
Yes, and that is why one day I went to see Heston (Blumenthal) at The Fat Duck - I love the guy. We chatted together and he said to me "You know what, you could have a hard time now but, trust me, don't change anything. Stick to what you do." He said "Trust me, I have been though so much s**t - don't change, stick to what you believe in." And I will always remember that.
That must be quite re-assuring, when you get someone like Heston saying that to you.
Yes, it is fantastic. I have a lot of admiration for that guy, he has never changed what he is doing - and he has had a lot of s**t along the way. He believes in what he is doing; He took so much risk to do it. And he has done it - he has respect from me forever.
So, Claude, 2 ½ years down the line - Two Stars. What does the future hold for Claude Bosi and Hibiscus?
Try to improve the reputation as best we can. Keep busy. And after - who knows!
Other ventures? Other restaurants?
I would like to open a pub with my brother. That would be fantastic. I like working with him. That will be the next step, maybe opening a pure English pub.
OK.
Yes, not French - English. Good Fish Pie; Good Steak and Kidney Pudding; Steak; Prawn Cocktail - all these things.
Lovely.
All what people want to eat - just doing it properly. And I have one of my Sous Chefs who would do that.
Fantastic. Claude, last question, tell us what dish you are going to cook for us today?
Today we are going to do a Grilled Veal Sweetbreads studded with Black Garlic, Italian leaf Salad, Garlic & Lemon Purée, Gremolata Dressing.
That sounds fantastic. Is that a dish that is currently on your menu?
Yes and is selling very, very well.
Claude, thank you vey much for your time.
