Trending Now: Fish bones, eye appeal and technical precision
Autumn menus are coming onstream, with nature’s bounty taking star billing. For Billy Boyter of The Cellar in Anstruther – which retained its star in the 2018 Michelin Guide – this is a creative time in the kitchen, with eye appeal and technical precision key.
Among his new Autumn dishes are East Neuk crab in a translucent “ravioli” of toasted rice jelly, with black garlic, apple and fried fish bones.
Chef Boyter’s family on both sides are from a long line of fishermen from the area, and his menu is never without local seafood. “People expect it because of where we are, but it means a lot to me personally,” he said.
A new dish of Arbroath Smokies with potatoes is a nod to his father, for whom they are a childhood memory. But the clean, fresh dashi-infused result is unexpected. “I like to surprise guests,” he said. “Smokies pack a punch yet they can also be very light.”
Species in Season
Scottish MonkfishScottish MackerelScottish Brown CrabScottish Pollack
George Anderson, Shetland-based pelagic skipper of Adenia, is looking forward to good catches of mackerel when he sets out this month. Armed with 40 years of experience, a 70m long state of the art vessel and an 11-man crew, he will be off from Shetland until December, returning to harbour every day or two to deliver fresh fish for the market as quickly as possible.
Mackerel fishing is one of the most seasonal catches of the Scottish offering, fished for only short period of the year in huge volumes to supply the UK and global markets, from Russia to Japan, China and Africa.
George’s catch will be sold to Norway and Denmark, and the best goes to Japan for sushi. “It also goes to Egypt and Africa, so we’re feeding the world!” said George. “Even if Scots ate mackerel 24/7 they wouldn’t make a dent in the volume we catch.”
The biggest change he’s seen in his 40 years is development in technology: sophisticated survey and research equipment puts him ahead of scientists. This sector has some of the most heavily invested and impressive engineering and technology of industry.
There’s another notable change. “We’re getting the best catches of good quality fish I’ve seen in 40 years, thanks to responsible stock management.”
CLICK HEREIf you would like a copy of the Seafood Seasonal Guide for your kitchen or help on fishing methods, sustainability or advice on sourcing Scottish seafood for your restaurant, get in touch:[email protected], 0131 557 9344.
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