For Jacqueline O’Donnell, executive chef of The Sisters independent restaurants in Glasgow, not having fish on her menus is unthinkable. “We always have fish and shellfish on, and that’s driven by increased customer demand,” she says, adding: “In fact, we now have at least two fish starters and two fish mains compared to a few years ago when we had just one and one.” North Sea cod is once again a staple, following the recovery of stocks.
“Customers are really informed about what’s happening on a range of issues such as cod stock management or how much of our hake is going to Spain. They know that as consumers they can make a difference, and our role, as chef-buyers, is to encourage that.”
O’Donnell’s cod stew with Scottish venison chorizo on a bed of potatoes, and hake with smoked paprika, tomato broth and roasted fennel, are popular. This month [January], scallops and crab from Grimsay, North Uist, will feature strongly.
Inverlussa Marine Services on Mull in 1980 and runs it his wife and son. Although mussel-farming in the Grade A Loch Spelve is a small part of his aquaculture business, it has a special place in Douglas’ heart. He pioneered the continuous rope system in Scotland, and his two customised vessels speed up delivery to the Scottish Seafood Marketing Group (SSMG) production factory in Bellshill, Glasgow.
“The old adage of only eating mussels when there’s an ‘r’ in the month came before refrigeration and our strict toxin testing regime,” he says. “Now farms sell on ‘positive release’, so they are safe all year round. This has helped spread demand and supply.”
Being part of the SSMG co-operative means he doesn’t have to harvest all year round. Inverlussa mussels are at their peak from March through November and Douglas is proud of their provenance. “Our cold, pristine waters slow down growth, which helps develop flavour,” he says.
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