Celebrating 25 years: How Applebee’s became a ‘seafood institution’
When it comes to growing a hospitality business from the bottom up, Jack Applebee has seen it all.
Now CEO of Applebee’s as it celebrates its 25th birthday, Jack started his journey with the business by helping out on his family’s fish stall in Borough Market as a child.
Spotting a change in diner habits, business focus shifted to opening up a restaurant instead, which still stands and is thriving in London’s bustling food market.
“We've come a long way in 25 years,” Jack told The Staff Canteen.
“We were a small, little fishmongers. We've grown into what I hope is a seafood institution that we want to continue to grow for another 25 years.
“But me, the team, the family, we're all incredibly proud of it.”
From reluctant leader to CEO
While Applebee’s is a family-run business, becoming the man at the helm of the company was not part of Jack’s plan.
“No, absolutely not,” he insisted.
“I was at university, did a maths and economics degree, was supposed to be following a banking career, but decided to go and help out the family business for the summer before I started.
“That was it really. We had a GM at the time and it was running like a really old school manner where it was ‘this is just how we do things in hospitality’. I remember the managers at the time were getting people to finish at midnight and come back in the next morning at 9am.
“Me coming in and probably not being too afraid to ruffle a few feathers, I was more like ‘it's not how we have to do things, it doesn't really make sense’.
“It came down to either I went or he went. Next thing you know, he's handed his notice in and I've been there 10 years since.”

Jack continued: “Twenty-five years ago I was seven and helping out with my dad and the guys over on the fish stall in the market when we first started.
“I've always been involved and so have all the family, one way or another. It’s not always something we wanted to do, but I remember even having New Year's Eve parties after working in the fish shop.
“The truth is, it's a super hard business, restaurants. The effort you put in for what you get out of it, from a financial point of view is not great. But from a rewarding point of view, we get that huge gratification of what hospitality is all about really - trying to put smiles on people’s faces.
“I've seen the sort of pain and suffering that it's caused my family through the years, but part of me wanted to make a better life for my family and for everyone. Fortunately, we've improved in many factors. Things are much better. But it's not how I saw my life going, put it that way!”
The key to Applebee's longevity
Moving from fishmongers to restaurant, around 17 years ago, with a spell as a street food stall in between, has been key in preserving Applebee’s longevity and success.
Discussing that move to opening a permanent site, Jack explained: “Borough Market has changed loads.
“If you're a foodie, there is not really a better place to go to either eat or drink or to buy produce. As time progressed and Borough Market’s become more and more famous, it has attracted a lot more people and more of a tourist crowd as well. That crowd are more interested often in eating and drinking while they're out, rather than necessarily, in our case, buying fish and taking it home.
“So we adapted, as the market adapted. We're a fishmongers that turned into a restaurant.
“At its core, it is a produce market. Borough Market continues in the identity of what it wants to be, but it's also adapting to what the customer demand is.
“But my early memories were me on the fish counter. As a kid I remember watching the night bus coming down from Harry Potter. I remember we were all upstairs in what was my parents’ little office and we saw all the cast, we saw the triple decker
bus come down the road. For us, there's loads of memories like that.
“Borough Market has been in my blood really since early years.”
Executive Chef Frankie van Loo’s influence
This year, marking its 25th anniversary, Applebee’s underwent some changes with a relaunch and new menu, under newly appointed executive chef Frankie van Loo, formerly of Jason Atherton’s Social Company group.
Discussing the recent changes, Jack explained: “I came in straight after university. A 22-year-old kid pretty much with loads of ideas, but no experience at all.
“So I made a mess of a lot of things, but I was really trying. Each year was a new idea.
“In the 10 years that I was doing that, it sort of became an amalgamation of all the ideas I had throughout my 20s. With our 25-year birthday coming up in mind, I thought okay, I would love to be able to now really put my own stamp on it. Use what I've learned and reimagine Applebee's as what we are and just sort of refine it a little bit to be where I'd be really proud to see our restaurant for the next 25 years.
“We underwent a whole branding exercise and we wanted to keep true to what we do, which is at our core. We provide the best seafood you can get in London, but we wanted to do it in a way that we were even more proud of.”

He added: “Frankie is coming up to a year with us now. He’s been amazing for us. To have an extra pair of eyes to see our operation from an outside perspective has been great.
“He brings a wealth of experience. His ability to make dishes and cook food, honestly, it's another level.
“We’re a family run business, so a lot of our people become almost part of our family. We've had a head chef, sous chef and KP who have all been there for 18 years at Applebee's in that site. So for us to grow we needed that external eye a little bit to try and help refine us.
“Since we've had Frankie, we’ve really nailed down our supply chain now, to buy direct from British fishermen.
“We can say with confidence that we do get the freshest fish you can get in London and we know that for a fact. We're really proud to have that.
“Then what we do with the fish and how we can treat it in a way to keep it true to what the fish is, but add that little detail or that little refined moment to make it even better, is what he's brought.”

Challenges facing hospitality and calls for support
As well as Applebee’s, Jack runs sister site La Gamba at South Bank, which serves Spanish food.
Like many other restaurant owners, Jack is calling for support for the industry.
“Business is business, but the truth is we're such a huge employer in this country,” Jack said, discussing the struggles for those in hospitality currently.
“I think it is getting overlooked.
“We are dealing with so many variable costs and we just need a little bit of support from the government in something to do with our turnover, which would support customers as well.
“The thing that I think most hospitality groups are pushing for is some sort of VAT relief for hospitality businesses, because then that would actually allow us to have some sort of profit margin.
“Without being too morbid, for me in the 10 years I've been here, it's the hardest climate I've seen.
“In this particular year, I think the actual restaurant industry is being squeezed from both sides. I think unless there is some sort of intervention, we're going to see more and more close in the next year or so.
“I'm a numbers person and we're managing it, but hospitality is a very personal business. We’re all about product, most of the time and passion and it's really difficult to do that when you are being squeezed so much.”
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