I’ve used those techniques today because yes you can all get angry but it doesn’t help. I’ve had a box of spinach thrown at me as I picked it wrong but I didn’t respond well to that and that way of channelling anger I don’t agree with. For younger chefs receiving that kind of attention from older chefs won’t help them in their own careers, it won’t help them grow and it’s not a good way of nourishing talent.
You’ve worked with some big names but is there any one in particular that you’d say you’ve learnt the most from?
I often put a lot of the way I am down to Heston and my culinary training down to Yolande but I do think I’ve taken bits from everyone. I feel lucky to have worked with so many top chefs but Heston and Yolande are almost my two mentors and big pillars of my upbringing as a chef. Then when I worked with Jamie Oliver on the TV show, spending a week or two in Italy with him, seeing him work from a business perspective and the way he surrounded himself with those that really believed in his goal and vision really made me go ‘no wonder he’s so successful’; that’s why he and his brand works so well.
So what are you currently working on and how do you split your time with everything you now do?
My main role is as the consultant for Waitrose, I help design and develop new chocolates, desserts and concepts, mainly on the Heston brand, so I work with him and his team to create those dishes but also with the Waitrose team. Outside of that I’m an ambassador for Cacao Barry, so I teach at the academy over in Banbury, help demos and talks on behalf of them and then I’m currently writing my third book which is out next Spring. I have my finger in lots of different pies (no pun intended there).
How did the role with Waitrose come about?
I happened to meet one of the directors at my local church and he asked had I thought about getting into retail. At the time I was about to start with Thomas Keller at The French Laundry but that trip didn’t happen in the end so I got in touch with the executive chef at Waitrose who said we can’t make you a director but what about becoming a consultant - I’ve been there ever since, since 2011.
You like to scribble ideas down whenever you can, do you still have that level of creativity and do you think there will ever be a point where you will run out of ideas?
I’d hope I’d never run out of ideas, I’m someone who constantly eats out in different places and having different food experiences. When I was writing the second book I was trying to find this recipe in my head that I couldn’t quite find so I put it to bed. But I was having some rosemary sourdough toasted and I just put some apricot jam on it and I bit into the toast and had a ‘that really works moment’, so I put a bit of chocolate with it and this apricot, rosemary and chocolate combination just burst out and I incorporated it into a dish. Sometimes they come when I least expect it rather than forcing it, ideas can come from really whacky places and industries like fashion, photography or music and thinking how can I use that trend in a chocolate or a dessert.
Would you say the aim of your creations is to create something new or is it to put a twist on something classic?
For me it’s always the twist. Especially in a retail prospective it’s difficult to re-invent the wheel and come up with something new, I think what people want is that twist that taps into their nostalgia. Whether it’s a take on a Tunnocks Teacake or Jammy Dodger people want to connect with their childhood more recently rather than before when it was about pushing the boundaries of cuisine.
In terms of flavours what do you enjoy creating the most?
Anything chocolate based I’m becoming increasingly more passionate about, where it comes from and making it more sustainable in the future. I’m a classic pud boy – I’m a sticky toffee pudding, Victoria sponge, Black Forest Gateau but with a little twist; it’s not three steps on it’s one or two steps so people can still recognise that classic. We did a lemon meringue pie in the first book but adding that touch of yuzu into that lemon curd brings a whole new eating experience rather than just being a really tart curd the yuzu brings an earthiness to it.
How do you decide what to put into your books?
I always scribble everything down and then pull from there, as a team we shoot the book over a couple of months in two-day slots which means that I can go away eat somewhere and get inspiration. There was one where went to Jinjuu in London and there was a coffee, miso and cardamom dish and I thought that could work well as a twist on a classic coffee and walnut cake; adding the salted miso into a buttercream.
So what does the future hold, is there anything that you still have to tick off the list?
There’s always been a part of me that wants to have some kind of shop, whether a chocolate shop or a deli. I’m a great believer in serving food that people want to eat and giving good quality food and that might range from a sandwich to a trifle etc. And I’m also really starting to become more and more passionate about that side of chocolate, giving it the sustainability it deserves; I can’t think of anything worse than a world without chocolate. So I’m hoping to get involved with an education programme in cocoa growing regions to help train farmers.