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Fabrice has worked his way up from chef tournant to head chef during his ten years at The Waterside Inn. Louise Thomas speaks to Fabrice to understand what place The Inn has in our industry today and if traditional French cooking is still relevant to today’s chefs.
Talk us through your daily role and your responsibilities at The Waterside Inn.
I’m fully active in the kitchen. I prepare the special things like terrines and foie gras. I take care of 90% of the ordering; we work with 20 suppliers at the moment, which gives us a

good opportunity to find the best products and good availability. We work really closely with the suppliers to get the right product and the right quantity.
Service is more management for me: guiding the guys in the kitchen at the pass. It’s about finishing dishes and guiding the team. When
Alain Roux is on the pass, I assist in the kitchen and float around to check everything meets our standard. Tasting everything: canapés to petit fours, new dishes, wines, is a daily routine. I am constantly checking, checking, checking that everything is done the way we want it to be and in accordance with health and safety regulations.
Why did you want to come to The Waterside Inn? When did you start?
I come from Belgium and I was looking to work abroad in an English speaking country. I came here with my partner; we wanted to work in the best restaurant in the UK. We came for a trial and decided it was the place for us. I was impressed by the quality and the business when I came for the trial and decided to take the offer.
I hadn’t heard of The Waterside Inn before I came here: you have to remember it was ten years ago and the Internet was just starting, so there was less access to information. Today, everything is two clicks and a Google away. At the time, if you were a young chef in France or Belgium, you wouldn’t have known about a restaurant in the UK. When you think about it now, it’s amazing.
When I came in 20

01, I was offered the head pastry chef position, which I refused, I didn’t feel competent enough at the time, so they offered me the position of chef tournant, which allowed me to see the whole kitchen in a short space of time – moving from section to section. After one year, I was offered the sous chef position, which I held for six years, before I was offered the position of head chef
Your passion is for chocolate and patisserie, what made you undertake the role as head chef over head pastry chef?
Even at culinary school my interest was always divided between the pastry section and the main kitchen; one never dominated the other. I was passionate about pastry, chocolate, dessert, but also about cooking. Pastry is more about production, service; if I was in the pastry section full time I might get a bit bored, but I love pastry and chocolate. The kitchen side is more interesting for me, with regards to progressing, being more active, a little hectic. The busyness of the main kitchen suits me.
What has been your single biggest professional challenge whilst at your current operation and how did you overcome this?
Taking on the head chef position. It came at a time when I was looking to leave The Waterside Inn as I wanted to progress in my career, but at the same time the head chef gave his notice in and the opportunity came up. It was a great opportunity to progress, but also quite a scary one. It was about hard work, constantly reassessing myself and pushing myself to become a better manager.
Alain is always here, so when I lost control sometimes he was there to put me back on track; tell me what’s good, what’s not good. As you know, we lose control in the kitchen sometimes, especially when you’re young and you have a great weight on your shoulders, but he was always there to push me forward to progress and become a better manager. Managing is the hardest but most important part of being a team, so you can get the most from your chefs.
How much free reign do you have in the kitchen, with regards to creating
dishes and concepts, and how much are you guided by Alain? What is the process involved in creating a new dish at The Waterside?
Alain is always in