Sameer Taneja, Benares: ‘We don’t want to reinvent the wheel – just make it more beautiful’
When Sameer Taneja started out on his culinary journey, he felt he could not achieve the success he was seeking if he focused solely on Indian cooking.
But now the executive chef at Michelin-starred Benares in Mayfair admits: “I was wrong.”
Born in Delhi, Sameer started out training in hotel management, before taking on a kitchen role as a commis chef at The Oberoi Rajvilas in Jaipur, one of the best hotels in India.
Three years later, he moved to England, spending almost six years at Pascal Proyart’s Restaurant One O One, before going on to work under the likes of Pierre Koffmann and Alain Roux, perfecting his skills in French and European techniques.
He then returned to his roots, switching focus to elevating the tastes of India, in London.
Sameer is currently in his second stint at Benares, which has been open more than two decades. He was there from 2012 until 2015, when it held a Michelin star under Atul Kochhar, before returning in 2019 and helping the Indian restaurant win back its star in 2021, which it has retained ever since.
“I cannot take entire credit for retaining the Michelin star,” Sameer insists.
“It is 100% a team effort. Retaining a star is a big accolade and we are very proud of it. More than that, it's testament of consistency, team and hard work.”
A classical French training, and a return to Indian cuisine
Discussing his move back into an Indian restaurant, Sameer added: “When I was training in India, I always took French or eclectic European cooking as my career. Around 20-25 years ago, I was always degrading my own cuisine.
“I thought if I want to achieve something in life, it has to be European cuisine. It looked very amazing.
“I was wrong. I think the switchover to Indian cuisine also had a journey. I always wanted to cook with a few chefs - Pierre Koffmann, Michel Roux, Pierre Gagnaire. I managed to cook with at least 90 per cent of them. So I'm blessed, I'm lucky.
“Yes, it was not an easy journey cooking under Monsieur Koffmann, not easy at all. But what I've learned, what I've gained, what Waterside has given me, what chef Pascal has taught me, it means the world to me.
“How did it transform to Indian cuisine? Firstly, I will say my cuisine, what I'm doing now, is not fusion at all. If somebody asks what Benares is, what cuisine, I say it's deep-rooted Indian food, done maybe differently. I have an edge, taking my own food to a very interesting level. I'm very proud of what we put on the plate.”
He continued: “If somebody says ‘I have mastered Indian food’, bless him, it's not possible.
“It is so, so difficult to even imagine. It's a huge country. Every kilometre the language changes, the spice changes, the way you think changes. From north to south, it is totally poles apart.
“Classically I'm not an Indian cook, so it is very difficult for me to understand and execute. But on another hand, I am an open canvas so it's like when you start driving for the first time, it's easy, otherwise you have to unlearn and then learn stuff.
“So for me, it takes lots of energy to research.
“We take influence from whatever interests us. We are not shy because we love to break the rules, but keeping the authenticity and the tradition intact.
“We don't want to reinvent the wheel. We want to make the wheel more beautiful.”
The restaurant’s 20-year legacy and a new lease of life
Benares has recently undergone a refurbishment, relaunching with a new menu earlier this year.
It
is open seven days a week, catering to 85 covers per service, as well as boasting four private dining rooms, with a revamped bar area.
“We are very proud of our gastronomy at Benares, but I'm even more proud of our liquids” said Sameer.
“The bar does beautiful liquids and we have recently started our own Benares blend. We are very near to launch that product. I can vouch it is the best blend I've ever tried.”
He added: “This is a 20-year-old restaurant. It is an institution, so to say. Refreshing anything is a change for good. This welcome change was much needed and it brings lots of positive energy.
“It lets us think differently and it gives us a smile on our face and not only us, every diner.”
Future plans, and the soul of Benares
Sameer is keen to highlight the huge team effort required to keep Benares at the top of its game.
Soon after his return to the restaurant, Covid-19 hit and Benares was one of the first restaurants in the early stages of lockdown to start offering an at-home service and cooking for emergency workers.
Sameer remains “proud” of what Benares did during that time and to this day credits his team for its continued success, both in driving change on the menu and keeping customers happy.
“I get so tense when I have to innovate,” Sameer admitted.
“It is always a pressure to bring change every now and then. It's a big pressure to make things exciting all the time.
“There was a commis who came to me and said: ‘Chef, you have not changed the menu. It's been three months now. I have not asked you for a pay rise, or a holiday or requested anything. The only thing I say is if you don’t bring excitement every now and then, I'm going to leave.’
“I couldn't sleep that night. I think ‘what a team’. They are the integral part of our innovation.
“Now, once a week, one of the chefs brings their home cooking. It can be a pickle, a lentil, a simple vegetable or a very homestyle meat. We bring it on the table, we eat together and we develop from there.
“The team is very proud when they see their dish from their mum, from their friends, their home recipe coming on the menu. Most of my dishes are like that.”
He added: “Here we don't separate the front and the back of the house. In my head and in everyone's head, it's one team. It’s one big family.
“Any successful business has a foundation and those foundations are the people. My recently promoted GM has been here 17-18 years now and I think he started from a commis and today he has become a proud GM.
“We have few chefs here 12 years, 14 years and they are here and standing strong.
“When we see them, we think, this is Benares. They are what the guests come for. They are what the product is all about. Without them, I don't think this place exists.”
Looking ahead, Sameer added: “Accolades are excellent. It would be not true if I say I don't care about Michelin. Michelin is for me a parameter of good cooking. It's test of what we want to achieve.
“In a big restaurant, if I can maintain that consistency, if my diners come, that is the biggest accolade for us.
“The future of Benares, 23 years already and I see many, many more years. If I am here or not, Benares restaurant will always still stand strong, proud and will continue doing good work, with me, without me, it doesn't matter.”
The Staff Canteen has always been more than a website—it’s a community, built by and for hospitality. We share the wins, the challenges, the graft, and the inspiration that keeps kitchens alive.
We believe in staying open to everyone, but creating this content takes real resources. If you’ve ever found value here—whether it’s a recipe, an interview, or a laugh when you needed it most—consider giving just £3 to keep it going.
A little from you keeps this space free for all. Let’s keep lifting the industry, together.
Support Us
CONTRIBUTE
Sameer Taneja, Benares: ‘We don’t want to reinvent the wheel – just make it more beautiful’
