And so onto the last week of the regional rounds of Great British Menu 2015!
Next week we find out who will be cooking at the banquet celebrating the centenary of the Women’s Institute. And who better to judge the central heat than the man himself, third time GBM champion, Richard Corrigan, who is known for telling it how it is.
Richard Bainbridge, who was here on his fourth appearance, was pretty much greeted with “the last microwave sponge that was served to me on GBM I threw in the bin” after explaining the parsley and hazelnut sponge element of his starter would be cooked in the microwave.
This year, expectations were high, and fortunately the microwave sponge was a success, alongside the ‘beautifully cooked’ lamb loin, pearl barley and this year’s favourite veg, Jerusalem artichoke. Although, serving the meal in cold bowls was ‘unforgivable’ in Richard’s eyes, meaning for the rest of the week everyone was on plate-watch. Also recognisable from last year, Jason Hodnett who straight-off-the-bat of this series was remembered for crying when his dessert failed to impress. Re-creating his ‘Mum’s Chicken Stew’, Jason used the whole of the chicken to exercise the WI’s waste-not ethos.
The ballotine, made from leg and thigh meat, was served at room temperature which the chefs found surprising, and Richard found fault in the fact that “mum’s chicken stew” didn’t actually taste like a chicken stew, especially after the food had gone tepid after ten minutes wait to the pass. Newcomer Pip Lacey had advice from her boss Angela Hartnett when creating her dish, who we
went to visit during the cutaway to watch her receive a slightly awkward kiss on the forehead. Her starter, “Wine, Deer?” sounded right up my street, though. Parsnip wine puree and parsnip wine on the side of a carpaccio of venison and chicken sausages is what dreams are made of, and the scoring resembled that, putting Pip into the lead.
Opening the fish course with a philosophical statement about how “fish doesn’t need love”, Richard was expecting to see some dishes fit for the banquet, but instead was served what tasted like “a cod liver oil tablet” from the extremely brave Jason who cooked up some monkfish liver. His style of presentation did impress, however, serving the dish in famous WI member Adelaide Hoodless’ book was “one of the most beautiful ways of presenting a dish on this competition for a long time” Richard thought, and his baked potato ice cream worked well with the dish, but judging by his face when he tried it… he wasn’t sold on the monkfish.
Pip’s fish dish was inspired by watching her grandma over season her fish, which funnily enough turned out to be under seasoned when served to Richard. Her delicate salted haddock, fortunately, was still complimented even after getting too hot during the woodchip smoking where it started to cook, and the cucumber vinegar was a great addition.
Taking full inspiration from the brief, Richard researched Lady Denman, the first National Chairman of the WI. After three different attempts at the competition, Richard’s tactics of going back to basics worked well for him.
His ‘For Home and Country’ nabbed the highest score of the round, as the effort he went through with his presentation “showed real spirit” and the plum and pickled cucumber really stood out on the plate. The main course saw the first 10s of the central heat. Both Richard and Pip impressed with their innovative ideas that showed they really understood the brief. Top marks should have gone to Jason too, though, for his bold spirit. His ‘Deer in the Woods’ served venison with everything a deer would eat, too.
Richard was amazed by the flavour and presentational value of cooking two kinds of moss, but the venison was overcooked. Initially, Pip’s ‘Can Cook’ rabbit stew saw a lot of strange looks darted across the kitchen; the thought of cooking their own meals was either going to be a lot of fun, or a lot of bother. Poor Richard Corrigan had to put his glasses on just to read the instructions! But it was a hit, the offal was cooked perfectly, and the beignet was warm and mustardy, even the potatoes which were cooked in the godforsaken microwave went down well, and she was awarded