12 Chefs of Christmas, day 12 - Mark Birchall
As part of The Staff Canteen’s 12 Chefs of Christmas, we’re unwrapping how chefs across the UK bring festive flavour and cheer to their kitchens.
A grounded, quietly festive Christmas
Whether it’s a packed, buzzing barn on Christmas Eve, a lounge warmed by real fires, or a family table that ends with people asleep on the sofa, Mark Birchall’s Christmas is grounded, unfussy and deeply tied to one thing he keeps coming back to: Christmas pudding - with bacon and maple syrup, of course.
For Mark, the run-up to Christmas means two very different moods across his site.
He said: “The restaurant here is shut Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. The barn is open Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. They’re completely different restaurants - the barn is very busy. December’s already pretty much full. It’s a buzzing atmosphere, celebrating families and friends.”
In the main three-star restaurant, the pattern is different but no less intense.
Mark added: “You have a really busy couple of weeks before, and in between Christmas is really popular because everyone’s off work. We don’t do anything different - no Christmas menu or anything gimmicky. We have some nice decorations in the lounge, and we’re lucky we’ve got roaring fires. That adds to the festive atmosphere, so we don’t have to do too much. It’s regular guests coming for a special occasion.”
In the kitchen, the feeling is upbeat with a clear finish line.
Mark explained: “The atmosphere is always good regardless,” he said. “In the lead-up to Christmas, everyone’s excited - and we shut for a couple of weeks in January, so there’s a bit of light at the end of the tunnel.”
Celebrating with the team
New Year’s Eve is when everyone exhales. “After New Year’s Eve, we’ll get a couple of bottles of champagne out, have a glass of champagne and a beer, watch the fireworks with the guests, and then finish up,” Mark said. “Everyone’s off for a couple of weeks. It’s pretty simple - nothing too crazy - just embracing the celebrations with the guests.”
Christmas at home
At home, things are deliberately normal and family-focused.
“We have three children,” he said. “On Christmas Day we go to our in-laws. My wife’s brother, his wife, their kids - there’s 11 or 12 of us. It’s very normal: some nice food, a bit of wine, presents, sitting around, falling asleep early. That’s how it goes.”
Is he the one on the stove? “I usually help,” he laughed. “We do it between us.”
Highlights of the year – and looking ahead to 2026
For 2025, one moment stands above everything else. “Again, three stars,” he said: “That will never be beaten, I don’t think. I got Chef of the Year in The Caterer, Chef of the Year in the National Restaurant Awards… but ultimately winning the third star after almost eight years of being open - nothing will compete with that.”
Looking to 2026, the goal is refinement rather than reinvention.
Mark added: “Nothing will beat winning our third star. We’re an eight-year-old business but we’re still progressing, still striving forward, just consistently trying to give our guests the best we can. Growing the team, developing the team, really refining how we work and that guest experience.”
Then there’s one more wish: “Hopefully England win the World Cup,” he added.
Quick-fire festive questions 🎄
Sprouts – yes or no?
“Yes.”
What dish or ingredient defines the season for you?
“Christmas pudding, definitely. Our Christmas puddings have lardons of bacon, maple syrup in there - beautiful.”
What’s one ingredient you couldn’t run Christmas without?
“Christmas pudding.”
Favourite festive drink?
“Champagne. I’m not a fan of mulled wine.”
Dream Christmas dinner guest to cook for?
He couldn’t quite pick one on the spot - still “thinking about it” by the end of the call.
What’s your best or worst Christmas kitchen story?
“Probably the rude toys in Secret Santa,” he said, laughing. “I won’t say what - but they’re some of the funniest.”
Three words that sum up Christmas for you?
He joked first that “nobody knows what day of the week it is,” then settled on: “Chaos and turkey.”
written by abi kinsella
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12 Chefs of Christmas, day 12 - Mark Birchall
