The Staff Canteen caught up with some of the UK's newest additions to the Michelin Guide Main Cities of Europe 2017 to find out what the accolade has meant for them.
Veeraswamy
Uday Salunkhe -
Picture by Andy Hayler
Michelin star restaurant Veeraswamy has been featured in the Michelin Guide Main Cities of Europe 2017 for the first time, along with seven other new one star London restaurants.
Although Veeraswamy has received recognition from National Geographic and The Good Food Guide, receiving its first star in the Michelin Guide UK has been the pinnacle of success for London’s oldest Indian restaurant.
“I was over the moon actually," said head chef, Uday Salunkhe. “We didn’t know until the last moment.”
But winning a Michelin star comes with its own pressure.
“The expectations have changed," explained Uday. “They are higher now, being a Michelin star restaurant.”
Veeraswamy was opened as a pop up by Edward Palmer, a retired Indian army officer, the grandson of an English general and an Indian princess.
In 1926, Palmer opened up in a permanent location following a highly popular session at the 1924 British Empire Exhibition.
Sitting between Mayfair and Soho, Veeraswamy overlooks the buzzing Regent Street and has become the first Indian restaurant catering to European diners and royalty.
Acquired by MW Eat Group in 1997, Veeraswamy got a substantial makeover to maintain its glamorous atmosphere.
The Michelin Guide UK 2017 on Veeraswamy: “The room is awash with colour and it's run with great charm and enormous pride.”
Head chef, Uday joined Veeraswamy in 2006, leaving his position as executive chef at Chutney Mary, also part of MW Eat Group. Serving Anglo-Indian food in 1926, today, Uday cooks traditional Indian cuisine from various regions of India, like Bengal, the southern part of India and the coasts of India.
“All dishes are classical," said Uday. “We have a long reputation of traditional dishes and we want to retain that reputation.”
Alongside classical dishes, the chefs are not afraid to serve their own innovative creations, making a trip to Veeraswamy a true gastronomical experience.
Heron & Grey
Heron & Grey
The Dublin restaurant Heron & Grey is new to the guides and is among those in the UK and Ireland to receive its first star this year. The restaurant is so tiny it doesn’t even have toilets, but what it does have is a lovely atmosphere, creative chefs, and delicious food.
“We were very thrilled," said front-of-house manager and co-owner Andrew Heron when speaking to The Staff Canteen about their inclusion in the guides. “Especially considering the time that it all happened, working only for seven months.”
The recognition from Michelin has spearheaded the Heron & Grey name into the public eye.
“How many people know about us has changed overnight. We had thousands of requests for bookings and in one day myself and my wife managed to completely fill the restaurant for an entire year!” said Andrew.
“We don’t have to worry about filling up a Thursday night," Andrew continued. “It’s a nice comfort to have and it’s something we are very grateful for. The exposure is quite wonderful.”
Despite the rising public interest, Heron & Grey have stayed grounded. It is still the same ‘homely, candlelit restaurant in a bohemian suburban market’ that the Michelin inspectors got to know.
“The room is very small and it’s an open kitchen, so it’s a very normal experience," said Andrew.
Heron & Grey serve modern international cuisines using only fresh, seasonal ingredients.
When asked about the inspiration behind the food, Andrew said: “Damian will be inspired from all over, but mostly influenced by Californian food, and western American coastal cuisine. There’s a lot of great people out there doing unbelievable things.”
When asked about plans for the future, Andrew reassured us that Heron & Grey is to stay their focus for now.
“We’re still working on this," he explains. “This was always to be a test kitchen for Damien and I. We come in, test ideas, that’s why our menu evolves every two weeks.”
However, Heron & Grey is a stepping stone for a future project Andrew is not willing to discuss yet. And if Heron & Grey is just a test, what’s to come must be something great!
ELLORY
Ed Thaw
Opening in November 2015, Ellory has won over the hearts of the Michelin inspectors ahead of its first anniversary.
Sommelier and restaurant owner Ed Thaw shared his experience with The Staff Canteen after his award-winning moment.
“My dream was to have a wine bar or a business of my own. Now I have an amazing business partner in Jack Lewens and an amazing chef in Sam Kamienko. Completely different to how I imagined things would turn out.”
Although Ellory is a serious project for Ed and co-owner sommelier Jack Lewens, a Michelin star was not initially on their minds.
“We were deep into trying to make this restaurant work in this neighbourhood," Ed explained. The Michelin recognition transformed the business and it was a real applause to Ed, Jack and Sam’s efforts.
“The star was a boost for all of us who have put so much energy, love and money into this restaurant," said Ed.
Identifying as a neighbourhood restaurant, Ellory wants “the same people coming back again and again”.
With community at the centre of Ellory, the restaurant offers modern European sharing dishes with a European wine list.
“We love that style of eating that is based around sharing plates of food with friends and food that changes with the seasons. Some people seem to have a problem with sharing plates but it is how most of the world eats," exclaimed Ed.
Now that Ellory have become world-renowned, the East London restaurant aims to retain its neighbourhood quality, which Ellory’s diners care about.
“Great ingredients, carefully sourced wine and excellent staff without the fussing around tables or making customers feel on edge," noted Ed.
“I don’t enjoy a dining experience where the waiter is topping up my glass every five seconds. That isn’t demonstrative of quality, that’s really annoying.
“We’re trying to recreate the dining experience we would like when we dine out, not what we think an organisation like Michelin would like.
“I think a lot of people try for a Michelin star without first trying to make their restaurant unique. That’s why so many of those places feel the same.”
Today Ellory is still a relaxed and friendly place to eat.
“We are being ourselves without trying to be what we think other people would like us to be.”
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