A different kind of restaurant: How Farm Caff is redefining ‘Farm-to-Table’ in Somerset

Farm Caff is the bold new restaurant at Higher Farm, serving up standout dishes in the heart of Somerset.

Nestled on the outskirts of historic town Castle Cary, Farm Caff offers organic regenerative food alongside a revolutionary farming project.

Founded by dynamic brotherly due Giacomo and Matteo Grasso, the project at Higher Farm shows how the UK food system can shift from industrial methods to sustainable ones that support the environment, boost the local economy, and create healthier, better-tasting food.

Chef director George Barson began his career at River Cottage in Devon, where he quickly rose to sous chef. He then moved to London, working at top kitchens like Viajante with Nuno Mendes, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, and later as development chef at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen.

In 2017, he became Head Chef at Kitty Fisher’s in Mayfair and was promoted to chef director, helping to open Cora Pearl in Covent Garden.

In 2022, George moved to Somerset to open the Beckford Canteen in Bath, earning critical praise, before joining Higher Farm in late 2024.

The Staff Canteen spoke with George about the exciting new restaurant.

'Where the Field Meets the Kitchen'

He said: “I think the phrase ‘farm-to-table’ has become a bit of a buzzword - everyone says it, because technically all food comes from a farm somewhere. But here, it’s genuinely that. Veg is grown just across the field, and if I need more of something, I can just run out and pick it or ask someone on the farm. That direct connection - between the field and the kitchen - is really rare, and it feels meaningful. It’s what makes the food here feel grounded and honest, Farm Caff is where the field meets the kitchen."

SUSTAINABILITY

“Sustainability here isn’t just a marketing term- it’s actually the foundation of how we operate. The veg dictates the menu. The team sends me a list each Sunday of what’s being picked the following week, and that forms the core of what we cook. We’re predominantly vegetarian, with a little dairy, and that’s because it makes the most sense for this project. We try to use what’s in season, what’s nearby, and keep things simple but thoughtful.”

HANDS ON IN THE KITCHEN

“Usually when you reach a senior position, you end up doing less cooking. But here, we all cook and plate our own food - there’s no traditional pass. It means I’m

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still on the line every day, and I love that. You kind of lose that connection to the food when you’re just managing, but being in it every day keeps me grounded and reminds me why I love this job.”

“I don’t really see other restaurants like Osip or No. 1 as competition - they’re each doing their own thing, and Osip especially is in a league of its own. We’re different. You’ve got to drive to us, so people are coming here on purpose. Some come for soup, some for a full menu and champagne. I like that flexibility, we’re not trying to be exclusive. We just want to be a really good place to eat, without all the extra fuss.

“I think people sometimes come expecting a typical café, maybe some cakes, a salad, but what we’re doing is much more like a restaurant. The menu looks simple, but behind the scenes we’re using classical techniques, prepping over several days, and working with whole animals and fish. It’s understated on the page, but there’s real depth when the plate arrives. And I enjoy that, it’s good for the team too, because we’re keeping those foundational skills alive. You don’t see that in every kitchen anymore. For us, it’s about delivering top-quality food in a setting that feels relaxed and welcoming.”

HELPING THE INDUSTRY

“There’s been a chef shortage for years, and a lot of places have had to simplify, pre-portioned meat, pre-filleted fish, just to cope. But we’ve been able to keep those skills alive. We butcher animals ourselves, we prep the fish whole, it’s good for the kitchen team, for their growth. And honestly, it’s more satisfying. There are things I hadn’t done in a while that I get to return to here. It’s quite joyful, really.”

“When you reach a certain point in your career, you start looking for something more meaningful. I’d been in London, worked in some amazing places, but I was longing for that connection to ingredients again. Here, it's literally just over the field, veg growing a few metres away, ingredients arriving straight from the land. It reminds me of where I started, but now I’ve got the experience to really do something with it. It’s not about trends or chasing stars, it’s about honest food, done well, that’s rooted in where we are.”

Written by Abi Kinsella

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