From Dartmouth to the farm: Elly Wentworth’s new chapter

After seven years at the helm of The Angel in Dartmouth, earning national recognition and making her mark on Great British Menu, Elly Wentworth decided it was time for a change.

The Angel of Dartmouth, a cherished fine dining establishment, announced its closure in May, marking the end of an era for the town's culinary scene.

The move to Fowlescombe Farm in South Devon represents more than just a new job - it’s a complete shift in pace, philosophy, and connection to the land. Here, she works just steps away from the animals, gardens, and greenhouses that shape her menus.

leaving The Angel and joining Fowlescombe Farm

After seven years at the helm of The Angel in Dartmouth – and a well-earned maternity break – Elly felt it was time for a new chapter.

Elly said: “I left The Angel when I was pregnant and on maternity, and I felt like a new change was on the horizon. I’d worked there for seven years and wanted a new challenge. A friend knew the owners of the farm, and then the owner contacted me. I went around, had a look, and even though it was all brand new, I just knew the ethos. The whole concept is absolutely amazing – it’s a chef’s dream. Everything there is for a reason: the gardens and working closely with the farmer and the animals.

"We showcase every part of the animal – the beef, cows, pigs – making our own sausages for breakfast from our Tamworth pigs and beef shorthorn. We use most of the cuts, and we even supply the Millbrook Inn. The vegetables we grow are showcased to another level through preserving and pickling. It’s really nice for guests to see the whole journey, and it’s just a lovely place to work.”

the difference between a restaurant and farm kitchen

Having spent most of her career in high-end restaurant kitchens, Elly says the move to a working farm has completely reshaped how she cooks.

She said: “In restaurants, you have lunch and dinners, a set a la carte or tasting menu. I’ve done that for a long time. Here it’s a new concept – a one-on-one dining experience where we change the menu every day based around the meat, the vegetables, and the farm. We still work with the best fish suppliers and local farmers for chicken and duck,

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but we’re working much closer to home and showcasing everything that’s literally grown on site. Guests love to go around the gardens, pick their veg, and then eat it that evening. It’s beautiful.”

seasonality

With gardens, greenhouses, and polytunnels just steps away from her kitchen, seasonality at Fowlescombe Farm is immediate and abundant.

Elly added: “We change the menu every day based on what’s on the farm. We work very closely with our head gardeners, growing crops for winter and the next year. Right now we’ve got so many different varieties of tomatoes, marrows, courgettes, all our berries, and even our own Sichuan pepper. We’ve got aubergines, herbs, padrón peppers, chillies – the chefs can literally walk out, pick the veg, bring it into the kitchen, prepare it, and have it on the menu within two hours.”

Great British Menu

A familiar face to Great British Menu fans, Elly reflects on how the competition helped shape her career.

She explained: “It’s a very prestigious competition – you have to be asked to take part. It’s great to represent your region and your restaurant. I did it a few times and was very lucky. It definitely progresses your career, but it’s tough – you’re under pressure, you have to hit the brief, and you’re representing your team. But it’s also an amazing week at the same time.”

her biggest career lesson

Years in Michelin-level kitchens have taught Elly that food is only part of the recipe for success.

She said: “I’ve been lucky to work in some amazing restaurants. I’ve always been told that cooking is the easy part – managing the team is the hard part. When you have a good team, they’re the most important thing to look after and listen to. The food comes second to that.”

the future of Fowlescombe Farm dining

Looking ahead, Elly sees the farm’s dining experience becoming a true destination for food lovers.

Elly added: “I think it’s one to watch. It’s unique, it’s different, and the whole farm and retreat is pure luxury for anyone who wants to come and stay. Watching the chefs working so closely, seeing the whole story of what we do and why we do it – it’s a real treat for guests."

written by abi kinsella

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