Fabian Lehmann’s journey to McLaren Vale began in some of Europe’s most demanding kitchens.
Today, as Executive Chef at Maxwell Wines, he leads one of South Australia’s most respected regional restaurant kitchens. But the foundations of how he runs that kitchen today were formed long before he arrived in Australia.
His early training took place in Michelin-starred kitchens across Europe, environments where discipline, structure and consistency define the daily rhythm of service. For Fabian, those kitchens established the standards that still guide how he approaches cooking and leadership.
“Working in Michelin-starred kitchens in Europe really teaches you discipline more than anything,” Fabian says.
“The standards are incredibly high and there is a real structure to how everything is done, from prep to service to how the team communicates and operates.”
Those lessons extended beyond technique. Precision, organisation and respect for ingredients became habits that remain central to his approach.
“Those kitchens also taught me the importance of consistency and respect for ingredients. Every little detail matters.”
Finding a new kitchen in Australia
Fabian’s move to Australia began with curiosity and the desire to experience a different food culture.
“Like a lot of chefs, I originally came to Australia for a bit of adventure and a change of scenery,” he says. “The produce here is incredible, and the lifestyle is quite different from Europe.”
Joining Maxwell Wines offered the opportunity to lead a serious restaurant kitchen inside a winery environment while working closely with the produce and wines of McLaren Vale.
“Joining Maxwell felt like the right move because it offered a really interesting opportunity - a serious kitchen within a winery environment,” Fabian says. “It gave me the chance to build something meaningful rather than just step into an existing restaurant.”
Adjusting to Australian kitchens
Moving from Europe to regional Australia required some adjustment. The pace and culture of Australian kitchens felt noticeably different from the structured environments he had trained in.
“The biggest adjustment was probably the pace and culture of the kitchen environment,” Fabian explains. “European kitchens can be very intense and hierarchical, whereas kitchens in Australia tend to have a slightly more relaxed culture while still producing great food.”
The produce landscape also opened new possibilities. In regional Australia, discovering new producers is part of the creative process.
“In Europe you rely on very traditional ingredients and suppliers, but here you are constantly discovering new local producers and products,” Fabian says. “It opens up a lot of creative possibilities once you start working closely with what’s available in the region.”
Cooking inside a winery restaurant
Running a restaurant inside a winery creates a slightly different rhythm for the kitchen. The guest experience often begins long before diners arrive at the table.
“A winery restaurant has a slightly different rhythm to it,” Fabian says. Guests may spend time tasting wine or exploring the property before dining.
“That means the overall experience becomes really important, not just the food.”
Working inside a winery also creates a stronger relationship between the kitchen and the wine program.
“Working closely with the winery means the food and wine can really complement each other, which is something you don’t always get in a standalone restaurant.”
When wine shapes the menu
At Maxwell Wines, being surrounded by vineyards inevitably influences how Fabian approaches menu development.
“The wine definitely plays a role,” he says. “When you are surrounded by it every day, you naturally start thinking about how dishes will pair with certain styles of wine.”
The collaboration between kitchen and winery often shapes how dishes evolve.
“At Maxwell we are lucky to have a great team in the winery, so there is always conversation around pairings and balance,” Fabian says. “Sometimes a dish might evolve to highlight a particular wine, and sometimes it works the other way around.”
Cooking with the producers of McLaren Vale
Working in McLaren Vale has strengthened Fabian’s connection to local producers. The region is surrounded by farms, growers and small suppliers deeply invested in their produce.
“Working in McLaren Vale really brings you closer to the producers,” he says.
That proximity naturally shapes the menu and reinforces a strong sense of seasonality.
“Seasonality becomes very real when you are dealing directly with producers,” Fabian explains. “It encourages you to keep things fresh and simple.”
Structure and creativity in the kitchen
Fabian’s cooking style reflects his European training, combining strong structure with room for creativity.
“For me it always starts with structure,” he says. “My training gave me a strong foundation in technique and organisation, and that’s important for running a kitchen smoothly.”
Once those systems are established, creativity can develop naturally within the team.
“When the team understands the standards and the systems, it actually gives more freedom to experiment.”
At Maxwell, that process often happens collaboratively with the brigade, including head chef Matt Rodgers.
Maintaining consistency
Running a recognised restaurant requires consistency, something Fabian believes comes down to systems and people.
“Consistency really comes down to systems and the team,” he says. “You need clear processes in place, but you also need a group of people who genuinely care about what they are doing.”
Much of that work happens behind the scenes through preparation, communication and training. When the team understands the standards and works toward the same goal, maintaining consistency becomes far more achievable.
Leadership and team culture
Fabian’s leadership style has evolved over time. Earlier in his career the focus was largely on technical execution.
“As you move into leadership roles, you realise the job is really about people,” he says.
Today, a significant part of his role involves mentoring younger chefs and helping them develop within the kitchen.
“I spend a lot more time mentoring the team and creating opportunities for them,” Fabian explains. “A strong team culture is just as important as the food.”
Advice for chefs considering regional kitchens
For chefs considering regional kitchens or winery restaurants, Fabian encourages them to remain open to the opportunities these environments can offer.
“I would say keep an open mind,” he says.
Regional venues can offer closer relationships with producers, greater creative influence over menus and the chance to shape the identity of a kitchen. For chefs willing to embrace that environment, the experience can be highly rewarding.
