and don’t need to see my face on a chocolate box.”
What he aims for is surpassing his guest’s expectations every day: “First and foremost, I cook for my guests.” His menus change constantly according to seasons. Every two months, he changes the à la carte menu and every two weeks, the tasting menus. Over more than 20 years, he has developed new creations, which are either traditional or cosmopolitan-themed.
Through Harald’s pursuit of perfection, his dishes become culinary surprises. His cuisine is delicate, intense and full-flavoured. The Schwarzwaldstube also has an incredibly big selection of fine wines: 36,000 wines are stored in the wine cellar, which are under the care of Sommelier Stèphane Gass.
Sharing knowledge with his protégés
The father of three likes to share his knowledge with young chefs in his kitchen. He places his trust in the new cooks, integrates them in the team and gives them time to get to know the kitchen. “The more trust you show towards the cooks, the more proficiency comes back at some point,” he says.
Several chefs who now own multiple Michelin stars have gone through his kitchen, such as Klaus Erfort, Kevin Fehling and Thomas Bühner. In total, his protégés have earned 55 Michelin stars! Harald’s personal role model is French chef Paul Bocuse.
At 87, Bocuse is still in his restaurant every day. Harald comments, “That is an enormous achievement and very admirable.” At home, Harald never cooks: “I can survive off the things I have to try every day in the Schwarzwaldstube. If I ate the actual dishes as well, I could never hold my weight.”
By Vera Kleinken
