How chef Rafael Liuth is reinventing seasonal game at The Jugged Hare

The Jugged Hare has become one of London’s most celebrated game restaurants.

Located at 49 Chiswell Street, The Jugged Hare opened in a renovated Grade II listed brewery in 2012.

Founded by brothers Ed and Tom Martin of the ETM Collection, it combines British tradition with seasonal innovation.

The menu is strictly seasonal: if it’s not in season in the UK, you won’t find it on the menu.

Chef Rafael Liuth keeps the menu tightly season-driven. The restaurant prides itself on unique and impressive dishes from squirrel croquettes to crispy pheasant and specialty Scotch eggs, all showcasing peak-season ingredients sourced from trusted local suppliers.

becoming a chef

Reflecting on where his passion for cooking began, Raf credits his upbringing in Brazil for inspiring his career.

He said: “I think it was definitely family that inspired me to become a chef. Growing up in Brazil, in the countryside, food wasn’t something you bought - it was something you made. If we wanted bread, we had to bake it. If we wanted yoghurt, we had to ferment it ourselves. Nothing was readily available, but looking back, that gave me an amazing foundation.

"I was exposed to ingredients from the ground up - we grew it, cooked it, preserved it - and it gave me this really natural connection to food. My family played a massive role in that; it wasn’t about fancy recipes, it was just about eating well and respecting what we had. When I fast forward to where I am now, it feels like becoming a chef was just the most natural progression in the world.”

The Daily Changing Menu at The Jugged Hare

Raf also explained how the restaurant’s menu has evolved and why flexibility is so important.

He added: “We’ve moved to running a daily changing menu, which is pretty rare these days. For me, it’s the purest way to cook - you work with whatever is fresh, whatever’s come in from our suppliers that day, and you let the seasons lead the way. It keeps things exciting for the team and for the guests because you never feel like you’re stuck in a rut. Over time, we’ve built up around 30 signature dishes that rotate in and out, but we also have certain things people would never forgive us for taking off - like the Scotch egg. That’s been there since day one. Everything about it is done in-house, right down to the mustard we serve with it. I’ve eaten

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a lot of Scotch eggs over the years, but there’s something about ours - the detail in how we put it together - that really makes it special. It’s become a bit of an icon for us.”

“The biggest thing that sets The Jugged Hare apart from anywhere I’ve worked before is the flexibility and freedom we have here. The daily changing menu means we’re constantly reacting to what’s best in the market that day. Very few restaurants work like this anymore - it’s not easy, it’s a challenge to plan and prep for - but it keeps us true to the seasons and keeps us honest with our cooking. There’s no hiding behind a set menu. If it’s on the plate, it’s because it’s great right now.”

Dishes at The Jugged Hare, London

Preparing for Game Season

With game being central to The Jugged Hare’s identity, he described the excitement and preparation leading up to it.

Raf explained: “Game season is when The Jugged Hare really comes alive. We’re planning for it almost all year round - testing recipes, talking to gamekeepers, keeping an eye on how the season is shaping up. So much can affect it - the weather, disease, even just how the grounds are managed - so we’re always listening to the reports we get from the estates we work with. This year, thankfully, all the signs are really promising. When game starts coming in, it’s our chance to really show people what The Jugged Hare is about. It’s intense, it’s busy, but it’s also the most exciting time for us creatively because game is such a big part of our identity as a restaurant.”

Sustainability and Zero Waste

Above all, Raf and the team are committed to helping the environment through sustainable practices at The Jugged Hare.

He said: “We’re really committed to zero waste here. For example, all our vinegars are made in-house from trimmings - apple cores from Sunday pork roasts become apple cider vinegar; cherry stones become cherry and raspberry vinegar. We even make our own cherry wine, which takes about two months to ferment. I use champagne yeast so it hits around 15% ABV, and the flavour is just incredible with game dishes. These things might seem small, but they really define who we are - everything we put on the plate has a story behind it, and nothing goes to waste.”

written by abi kinsella

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