Paul Welburn has announced his triumphant return to the dining scene - but this time, it’s in Cornwall.
Best known for his time at The Oxford Kitchen where he earned a Michelin star and built a reputation for refined, modern British cooking, Paul has also worked in some of the UK’s most acclaimed kitchens, including stints under Gary Rhodes and at Rhodes Twenty Four. He gained wider recognition as a finalist on Great British Menu in 2014, showcasing his creative flair and ability to balance nostalgia with technical skill.
Now, after years in city-based fine dining, Paul is carving out a new chapter with Fern, a restaurant in rural Cornwall designed around balance - between family and food, between seasons and sustainability, between destination dining and local community.
Family over familiarity
Speaking about why he moved to Cornwall and how the project came about, Paul explained: “I was kind of hoping I could find something that would fit with what I want going forward, be that food style, location and balance of life. My main reason to come to Cornwall was because of having a young family, so it was a change of life for us. I wanted to find something where I wouldn’t end up being more in the kitchen than at home, but could still do the kind of food I’ve been known for.
"By chance I was put in contact with someone locally who had been trying to open this restaurant for about a year. They couldn’t quite get it over the line before, but when I walked into the space and saw the glass walls looking out towards the Camel Valley, I thought: wow, this has so much potential. Straight away I felt it was the right fit. That’s where Fern came from – the idea of something green, evolving, growing, and a restaurant that can develop over time.”
Balancing Seasonality and Local Trade
On the challenges of operating in a seasonal region, Paul said: “Cornwall is very seasonal, but the restaurant is actually based in a little village near Bodmin, so it’s not hyper seasonal. You won’t have just summer trade. What we’re trying to create is a local vibe, a local reputation to draw people in year-round. In the summer, locals who don’t want the hustle and bustle of the beaches can come here, and in the winter, when the coast is quieter, hopefully we’ll be busier. I think it’s about creating a balance of winter and summer, and this location gives us that.”
A Unique Space in Cornwall
Reflecting on the restaurant’s striking setting, he described his first impressions: “The restaurant has this annex built on the delivery yard and farm, looking out over the edge of the Camel Valley. It’s all glass, so in the winter you’re almost looking out at the elements, and in the summer it’s filled with beautiful sunshine and views. It just felt like an amazing space with so much potential. I think that balance of the seasons, in such a setting, makes Fern quite unique.”
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