the number of covers, we will never be your average country pub. It’s more brasserie style than anything, but I think we do it very well.
How do you balance creating beautiful, technical dishes and maintain the standard with so many covers?
That’s the hardest thing. We can’t be fiddling around on the pass too much. I think there is beauty in simplicity and we’ve designed the dishes with that in mind, which helps us get them out fast, but they’re still delicious, still beautiful.
What are your most popular dishes?
They’re all popular! We’re currently cooking our way through Heston’s book and doing our own versions of his dishes. The five-spice duck dish, served with pak choi, cucumber, and duck sauce, is really popular. We average just fewer than 300 steaks a week; a rib eye with bone marrow sauce and, of course, the triple cooked chips.
Starter-wise, the snail dish flies out. We too

k the elements of a dish called ‘How to make a Snail Hash’, and played with them, brought them up to date, but still kept the dish true to the original recipe. It’s basically snails on toast, but has lots of other components: pistachio paste; salt and vinegar pistachios; pickled walnuts; pickled onions; caper berries; deep-fried capers; fennel; walnut dressing. We use a sourdough bread, washed in egg wash, so it’s almost like French toast and the snails are cooked holding them in garlic butter in a water bath. It’s pure simplicity. It’s easy to serve; easy on the eye, but when you bite into it you can taste all the time and effort that’s gone into the dish.
How do you go about changing the menu?
We change the menu dish-by-dish and try to let the seasons guide us, but as you know they’re not set in stone anymore. The past few years we’ve had weird micro-seasons, so you’re getting stuff in February that you shouldn’t see until April.
To keep in touch with what’s happening, I speak to my suppliers daily, but the biggest thing for us is quality and consistency. We prep dishes by the hundreds, so an ingredient can’t be too rare or limited. It’s difficult sometimes; you want to use a particular product and the supplier will say, ‘well, I can get twenty or thirty a week.’ I need twenty or thirty a day!
You’ve built yourself a great reputation, you’ve got the star now, but you’re still young. Where do you see yourself in five years’ time and what’s the goal for your future?
We never really set out to get a star or any other award for that matter. What gets us out of bed in the morning is to be the best we can be. Great food and great service. We just want to give our guests the best possible. We push ourselves every single day. When the awards and accolades come of course that’s rewarding – its great for everyone in the team and morale. The beauty of working for Heston is you never know what’s around the corner and that’s exciting. Just want to keep improving really and building on what’s been done so far.