12 Chefs of Christmas, day 9 - Paul Ainsworth
As part of The Staff Canteen’s 12 Chefs of Christmas, we’re unwrapping how chefs across the UK bring festive flavour and cheer to their kitchens.
When Paul Ainsworth talks about Christmas in Padstow, you can almost feel the shift in the air he describes - the lights going up in the dining rooms, the town filling with visitors and second-home owners, and the beach calling on Christmas morning.
He said: “Christmas, for me personally, is one of my favourite times of the year. You just feel a real shift in the season. The guests, the warmth, the energy, the food, the dishes… everything changes.”
His wife Emma and family member Jordan – "an actual Rojano,” he laughs – take charge of decorating the restaurants. They plan the look and feel of each site, turning Paul’s Padstow group into a run of cosy, festive spaces as the Padstow Christmas Festival kicks off at the start of December and trade ramps up from around the 18th through to early January.
By then, Cornwall feels almost like high summer again – only with winter coats and Christmas jumpers instead of swimsuits.
Beach walks and a very Cornish Christmas Day
Living in Cornwall has hard-wired a particular ritual into the Ainsworth household.
Paul reflected: “For me, a big tradition is we love to take a walk on the beach on Christmas Day. We wake up, we do the presents with the girls and then, with our dog Freddie and the family, we just go on the beach, have a bit of a walk before we then continue Christmas.”
For the first time, Paul and his family will spend Christmas Day at Caffè Rojano, as they open both Caffè Rojano and The Mariners for Christmas Day service. Previously, the group typically closed on December 23, with the Mariners just serving drinks for a few hours on Christmas Day before shutting.
How the team celebrates
With multiple sites and a big family of staff to look after, Paul and Emma build in their own traditions for the team too.
Around the middle of December, each restaurant hosts its own breakfast or brunch celebration complete with Secret Santa and a proper cooked spread.
He explained: “Each establishment does a big Christmas Day breakfast. They do Secret Santa, a big breakfast, everybody exchanges presents. Myself and Emma always try to go to each one and be with the teams.”
Christmas cards are handed out, and it is a rare chance for everyone to pause together before the final run into the holidays.
Personal bests, Michelin keys and the Hurlingham Club
Looking back on the year, Paul splits his highlights into personal and professional.
On a personal level, 2024 has been dominated by endurance events: Ironman races, the London T100 triathlon and the London Marathon.
He said: “They’ve been so much more than just entering those
races. Mentally, physically, everything has just been incredible.”
That self-development work – getting serious about physical and mental health – has fed straight back into how he leads his teams.
Paul added: “It has made me a better leader, a better person, a better dad, husband, businessman. It’s taken me 45 years to get there, but it’s been huge.”
From a professional point of view, one standout is Padstow Townhouse being awarded a Michelin Key. The six-suite townhouse, opened in 2015 and run by a tight-knit team, has long punched above its weight in the boutique hotel rankings.
Read more: Paul Ainsworth buys Cornwall hotel St Enodoc
Paul said: “It hasn’t got a spa or a gym or a bar or restaurants all around. It’s just this townhouse with six suites… so winning the Michelin Key was real testament to the team.”
Another big moment was cooking for a high-profile tennis classic at the Hurlingham Club, catering for around 400 people a day for a full week.
He said: “Things like that are never lost on me. It's taken us 15 years to get to that point. We only say yes if we know we can deliver absolutely top of our game.”
Quick-fire festive questions 🎄
Sprouts – yes or no?
“Yes. Sprouts are amazing – people just aren’t imaginative enough with them. In my book, we stir fry them with crab and chilli and they’re incredible.”
What dish or ingredient defines Christmas for you?
“A beautiful roast ham on Boxing Day with wholegrain mustard, all the condiments, proper salted butter and a great loaf of bread.”
One ingredient you couldn’t run Christmas without
“Velvety, buttery scrambled eggs with truffle on buttery toast on Christmas morning – it wouldn’t be Christmas in our house without that.”
Favourite festive drink
“A non-alcoholic Negroni: Boltivo with soda over ice and a wedge of pink grapefruit. It’s got that bitter, wintry Negroni feel without the alcohol.”
Dream Christmas dinner guest to cook for
“Sir Alex Ferguson. I’d love to talk to him about mindset, culture and leadership – and then watch him fall asleep on the sofa with a blanket over his legs after Christmas lunch.”
Best Christmas kitchen story
“The first Christmas with my daughter Cece - absolutely magical. Having children of your own makes Christmas what it should be.”
Worst Christmas kitchen story
“Nanny Simpson boiled the cauliflower dry until it welded itself black to the bottom of the pan. Then she just poured a full kettle of boiling water in to ‘fix it’ - the water turned instantly black and she carried on cooking it.”
Three words that sum up Christmas
“Warmth, generosity, togetherness.”
Written by ABi Kinsella
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12 Chefs of Christmas, day 9 - Paul Ainsworth
