Recent events are a bitter reminder that while the hospitality industry is more progressive than it once was, some have found it harder to adapt to social change.
Historically, restaurants have fostered some inappropriate behaviours. But when we consider these issues, it’s also important not to give in to journalistic sensationalism,ignoring what makes the industry a great place to work.
We spoke to chefs Danielle Barry and Adrian Oliver, assistant restaurant manager Karen Gruet, journalist Victoria Stewart, and food critic Joe Warwick, about the practices that have stained the industry’s reputation.
We asked them to share their experiences, and questioned what they think should be done to eradicate abuse in hospitality.
Change takes time
In the past, kitchens mostly employed men, encouraging a macho culture. Coded respect for hierarchy meant it was difficult to stand up to a colleague, let alone a manager, and we took for granted that inappropriate behaviour towards women was just part of the job.
“A lot of men used to get bullied when I worked in restaurants,” Joe Warwick told The Staff Canteen. The stereotype of chefs screaming at young commis chefs or waiters appears true to life.
Danielle Barry, head chef at Balloo House, said that while working conditions have improved, “there’s always been what people call ‘lads' banter’” in the kitchen.
What’s more, restaurant employment is unique in that the lines between work and social life often get blurred. “That doesn’t really happen in your average office environment,” Warwick said. “Apart from the Christmas party, when of course, there’s always some idiot that photocopies their arse or whatever.”
Serious incidents are fewer and farther between than before. Both Danni Barry and Karen Gruet said they have never experienced bullying or harassment at work.
But, for Adrian Oliver, this makes it even more disappointing when bad behaviour in the industry makes the headlines. “And it brings the dinosaurs out of the woodwork a little bit," he said.
“You have these guys commenting things like ‘well, it’s only kitchen banter and if you can’t take the heat, get out of the kitchen.’ It’s nonsense.”
“When you have a young guy who’s making his way, doing really good stuff - and it’s not whether it’s true or not, he’s put himself into a position where these accusations can be made, and you think ‘really?’ I thought kitchens had moved on a little bit.”
Speak up
Perhaps the question isn’t whether hospitality is worse than any other industry, because it is hard to measure social interaction. And while lamenting how far restaurants and kitchens must go to address their issues is important, constructive things must be done.
Danni Barry cited Chef’s Network
