special atmosphere.
Having been raised close to the French border his cuisine is greatly influenced by the classical French tradition, which he combines with modern influences. It differs from other three star cuisines, as Klaus likes simplicity: “I cook with respect for the products I use and thus prefer to keep them whole and cook them gently.” His dishes combine only a few ingredients on one plate to create a balance of flavour. “It’s much harder to reduce a dish to just a few components than it is to combine a lot of different aromas,” he explains. A signature dish of his is the vegetable patch with Breton lobster, olive croquant and poached quail’s egg or the Mieral pigeon in a crust of sea-salt combined with jus of truffles and cream of celery.
The chef doesn’t like big publicity. He has never appeared in TV shows, he hasn’t even written a cookbook. He works exclusively in his kitchen for the 35 privileged guests who can get a seat in the restaurant. Most of the produce he uses in his dishes comes from the area, from his vegetables to his meat: “The best is the freshest, and the freshest is the closest.” That is the name of the game.
What he enjoys about cooking is that a nice meal can change a person’s feelings: “You can affect people’s moods with your work.” When he is not lifting the moods of his patrons, he spends time with his wife and son, or takes a spin in his Porsche.
By Vera Kleinken
Look out for our editorial on Friday when we ask the question: “Is German cuisine the best kept secret?”
