12 Chefs of Christmas, day 3 - Barry Bryson
As part of The Staff Canteen's12 Chefs of Christmas, we’re unwrapping how chefs across the UK bring festive flavour and cheer to their kitchens.
For Barry Bryson, chef-owner of Barry Fish in Leith, this Christmas is a milestone - the first festive season since opening his debut restaurant earlier this year.
Read more: Edinburgh restaurant launches first ever Fish-mas menus
While the buzz of Christmas dining builds across Edinburgh, Barry is taking a measured, quietly confident approach to the celebrations.
He said: “It’s our first Christmas at Barry Fish, so that’s exciting in itself. But it’s also the unknown aspect of it - we’re very much planning on seeing what people expect of us more than anything else.”
That curiosity defines his festive outlook. Rather than leaning into overt Christmas themes, Barry plans to bring subtlety and restraint to his winter menu.
He added: “I think we’ll find ways to celebrate Christmas without the overtly obvious. We’ll have decorations and seasonal elements to the menu, but I think the broader dining public actually welcomes some respite from that as well. So I would say we will be subtly festive.”
The calm after service
For Barry, who spent years as a private chef before launching his first permanent site, the festive season is as much about reflection as it is celebration.
He added: “Our last service will be Monday, December 23, and we’ll reopen on December 27. That evening on the 23rd, the team and I will all be heading away for three days - they’ll no doubt be having quite a lot of cocktails.
“I don’t drink, so I’ll join them for a short while with a beautiful bottle of non-alcoholic sparkling wine a supplier sent me.”
After that, things slow right down.
Barry explained: “Christmas at home is pretty calm, if I’m honest, I look forward to the time off and the rest more than the endless trips around. This year we’re celebrating with friends who also own a restaurant, so that basically means there’ll be two chefs cooking on Christmas Day. For me, it all revolves around the food - the endless meals, that’s the best bit.”
A year of milestones - looking ahead to 2026
Opening Barry Fish has been a long-held ambition for the Scottish chef, and he describes it as the highlight of his year.
He said: “I waited a long time to do it. Is it ever the right time to open a restaurant?
It felt like it was as good as it was going to get for me - all the stars aligned. Without doubt, opening Barry Fish has been the highlight of my year.”
Looking ahead, his hopes for 2026 are simple but purposeful.
Barry added: “Consolidating it, really. We’ve had such a phenomenal first year - you dream of a busy restaurant with good reviews from both the public and critics. So, for me, it’s about developing it, improving it, and looking at the detail a little bit more.”
Quick-fire festive questions 🎄
Sprouts – yes or no?
“Oh, a hundred times yes - but only if they’re not overcooked. They’re absolutely perfect for Christmas dinner, but if you put them on at the same time as the carrots, you’re in for a soggy mess.”
What dish or ingredient defines the season for you?
“Well, it’s my secret weapon in so much cooking - I use a lot of Worcestershire sauce. It’s a brilliant enhancer, developer, seasoner, balancer. I always have a bottle of it.”
One ingredient you couldn’t run Christmas without?
“It’s got to be the fish course. I like to start with good langoustines - that’s the highlight for me before all the traditional stuff. Some good langoustines to begin with and I’m happy.”
Favourite festive drink?
“This year I’ll probably be having spicy Virgin Marys - I love them. If I’m feeling really bougie, I might have a couple of oysters with them. You can even crack a clam into one - pretty delicious.”
Dream Christmas dinner guest to cook for?
“It would probably be Nigel Slater. I love his cooking, his writing, and his approach to produce. His food reminds me of winter - there’s something about his writing that I turn to in the colder months.”
What is your best and worst Christmas story?
“Cooking langoustines on a barbecue in Mallorca on Christmas Day was pretty wonderful.
"The worst? Working as an agency chef in London and getting booked to cook in a Chinese restaurant on Christmas Day. None of the permanent chefs turned up, so it was just me and another agency chef cooking a buffet. Neither of us were Chinese - it was definitely not authentic! But we laughed a lot that day.”
Three words that sum up Christmas for you?
“Generous. Delicious. Calm.”
Written by abi kinsella
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12 Chefs of Christmas, day 3 - Barry Bryson
