It’s an exciting time for English wine, with over 1,000 vineyards around the UK producing award-winning sparkling and still wines that are rightfully earning their place at the tables of restaurants around the UK and further afield. The Staff Canteen takes a closer look at its evolution.
This month Soho restaurant 10 Greek Street is pulling out the stops (or, should that be corks?) to celebrate English wine. Not only will the bustling neighbourhood restaurant be listing a larger collection of English wines than usual, it plans to ‘showcase the age-ability of English sparkling wine’ with a special selection of aged English wines and by hosting a masterclass on vintage fizz in partnership with West Sussex wine producer Nyetimber.
Sourcing a stock of older vintages for 10 Greek Street’s curated ‘black book style selection of mature vintages, diverse styles and regional expressions’ was a challenge, says director of operations Will Clarke, mainly due to the current form of English sparkling wine still being relatively young.
However, the fact that an unassuming 36-cover London restaurant has set out to celebrate English wine in such a bold way is just one indicator of how far it has come in the last decade.
Because, as Tori Eeles, head of sales and marketing at Wiston Estate in West Sussex, points out, English wine was still niche 10 years ago, but ‘now it’s almost as expected as Champagne on most good wine lists.’
“The wine savvy consumer is gradually coming around to the idea that English wine is good quality, which we can see from more and more restaurants finding it easier to sell,” she says.
Wiston Estate’s sparkling wines, produced from classic Champagne grapes (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier), grown on South Downs chalkland and made with a Coquard press from Champagne under the direction of winemaker Marcus Rayner-Ward, are certainly among the English sparkling wines who can claim to be stealing a share of the wine list from Champagne at a number of restaurants.
“Hospitality is in general very supportive of English wines in our experience,” adds Tori.
At Hammersmith seafood restaurant Faber, two Wiston sparklers and one still wine – Brut NV; Rosé NV and Fifty Summers Rosé – are on the wine list with over 20 other English wines, while Wiston’s Brut NV is the only sparkling wine available by the glass at Cornish gastropub The Old Coastguard.
Chef Simon Rogan is so impressed with Wiston’s wines; he has put his name to one. The Simon Rogan x Wiston Sparkling Rosé is a collaboration between the chef and the winery with bottles available for sale from Simon’s restaurants and his online shop from this month.
“I’ve always admired their work from afar and loved their wines,” says Simon. “Together we’ve created a wine we’re really proud of, dry, complex in flavour and perfect for summer.”
The UK’s hospitality sector has been ‘fantastic’ at supporting the English wine industry, asserts Abigail Thomas, brand ambassador for Rathfinny, the East Sussex wine estate established in 2010 and today a producer of various styles made from the three principal grape varieties - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. However, it is only recently that support, and ranges have broadened.
“Ten years ago, there were one, or two pioneering producers that were listed exclusively at Michelin-starred restaurants and luxury hotels. It is now rare to visit quality hotels, bars, restaurants and gastropubs and there not be an English producer listed,” she says.
Supporters of Rathfinny include The Libertine London, where four of the five English sparkling wines on its wine list are Rathfinny, including its Classic Cuvée; Blanc de Blancs (ideal for pairing with a plate of its oysters, says Abigail) and Blanc de Noirs.
The latter wine – a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier is also a sommelier favourite at London restaurants Kol, The Clove Club and Flemings Mayfair where it is served by the glass, while Coworth Park in Ascot lists Rathfinny’s Rosé as the exclusive sparkling offering to its afternoon tea in spring and summer.
The same wine is listed at Suffolk pub the Peacock Inn where the suggested pairing is with a dessert featuring Disaronno macerated strawberries and a woodruff panna cotta.
General manager Jack Butler notes a ‘growing openness towards English wine’ from customers. This hasn’t happened by accident; however, it has taken work educating the team about these wines so they can encourage and enthuse diners to try them.
“We make sure they [the team] are comfortable talking about the producers and styles, and we love guiding guests to something they might not have considered or tried before. Whilst our tasting notes that are available throughout our wine list help, it is often the opportunity of a conversation that turns a curious glance into a glass poured.”
The Peacock Inn team also regularly attend tastings and talk to suppliers to stay abreast of updates in the category and where possible visit local producers ‘to get a better idea of what goes into making their wine.’
With a growing number of vineyards and wineries establishing themselves on the doorsteps of many restaurants – certainly for those in the south of England – this is a possibility for many and a key way to get teams excited about English wine themselves.
“There’s a great chance to visit and see first-hand what producers in the UK are up without having to go abroad,” adds Duncan Schwab, head winemaker at Sandridge Barton, the South Devon winery which produces sparkling wines Sharpham Classic Cuvée and Sandridge Barton Blanc de Noirs as well as a range of still wines under its Don’t Feed the Ponies label.
“Winemaker’s dinners are also a great way to gain traction and for guests to also engage with the wines and the people behind them.”
Master sommelier Laura Rhys MS, is head of wine communication, education and style at Gusbourne, producer of still and sparkling wines made from the three classic grape varieties grown on their estate in Kent. She and the team work closely with restaurants and this month Gusbourne has a busy programme of events planned, including masterclasses at The Whisky Exchange in London and a wine-matching dinner at Àclèaf restaurant in Devon.
There is always room for more, however: “The English wine industry is hugely exciting, with a great breadth of wine styles now being produced. It would be great to see more wine lists showcasing this – and perhaps highlighting it with dedicated pages in the list.”
Tori at Wiston agrees there is still work to be done to promote the breadth of English wines.
“There is a big swathe of consumers who are still simply unaware of its existence outside being a novelty. Price is still an issue – the best English wines to date have been traditional method sparkling wines which are expensive to make, and the average consumer does not fully understand this.”
Abi at Rathfinny agrees that price is a barrier to boosting sales of English wine in hospitality, alongside the perception that ‘restaurateurs believe their clientele would deem English wine inferior’. However, she says the tide is turning and is excited by the moves she is witnessing.
“We are increasingly seeing regional wine categories developing on wine lists showcasing a range of producers from areas such as Sussex, Kent and Hampshire, whereby before it was generally the case an establishment would only feature one as their ‘English Sparkling pour’ alongside several Champagne houses.”
While he has the enviable job of head chef at Wiston Estate’s onsite restaurant, Chalk, giving him direct access to quality English wine, Jordon Powell is really pushing things to the next level. With every new dish created at the restaurant, he considers how components will work with wines in the Wiston portfolio.
“We often use Wiston wines in our sauces too, which helps with the dishes resonating with the wine pairings,” he says.
But Jordon doesn’t believe you have to be working on a wine estate to champion English wine, if you’re using local produce to create dishes, matching them to wines grown and produced in the same region is ‘a no brainer.’
“Chefs in France, Italy, Germany and Spain have been doing for centuries. Aside from the sustainability element, which is key, it’s great to be able to show off a unique ‘terroir’ to use a wine-geek term, especially in such a digital world, produce that comes from this land is so important to champion.”
Food and wine for thought: Top English wine and food matches
Jordon Powell (pictured above), head chef at Chalk, Wiston, West Sussex: “Cured-Cornish mackerel with cucumber, horseradish and elderflower (foraged from the nearby hedgerows) with the Wiston Blanc de Blancs 2018. [The wine] has beautiful acidity which complements the oily mackerel, as well as body and flavour which can balance the horseradish and elderflower.”
Duncan Schwab, head winemaker, Sandridge Barton, Devon: “Recently our new restaurant onsite has served a rare fillet from the South Devon herd on our estate with an anchoiade sauce which paired really well with our chilled light red called Billy, which is made with Pinot Noir and Madeleine Angevine.”
Laura Rhys, MS, head of wine communication, education and style, Gusbourne, Kent: “Gusbourne Chardonnay Guinevere 2023 (the new vintage launches on 9 June) with fresh seafood and fish - a simple dressed crab, scallop ceviche or langoustines in a lemon butter sauce.”
Will Clarke, director of operations at 10 Greek Street, London: “Bread and butter pudding with Nyetimber 'Cuvee Cherie’ Demi Sec MV. The wine is off dry and the bubbles, acidity and slight sweetness work so well with the classic English dessert.”
Jack Butler, general manager, The Peacock Inn, Chelsworth, Suffolk: “Disaronno macerated Essex strawberries, woodruff panna cotta and a wild strawberry gel with Rathfinny Rosé. The strawberry core of this traditional method sparkling wine with red berry fruit flavours, refreshing acidity and a fine mousse, compliments the layered expression of strawberry in the dish while the almond flavours introduced through the amaretto mirror subtle autolytic notes of the wine. Finally, the acidity and fine mousse refresh the palate by balancing the richness of the panna cotta.”
(Written by Emma Eversham)
