which way to go,” explained Andrew. “So to get it back was a release - to know we were on the right track.”
While Andrew found himself back in the guide for 2015, Gary Pearce, head chef at Ramon Farthing’s 36 on the Quay had the news that after 28 years the restaurant had lost its star.
He took over from Ramon in 2012 and said: “It was a big decision for him to hand the helm to me but he was still here mentoring me through the process and working most days. He felt that maybe Michelin could have spoken with him or asked more about the transition taking place.
“I personally was gutted and deflated because I felt partially responsible, but nevertheless I had Ramon and Karen, my wife and whole team’s full backing. From the other side it was a wakeup call and motivated me and the whole team to prove that we are worth it!”
Holding a star for nearly 30 years is a huge achievement and to lose it you would expect the ripple effects to be devastating but Gary says it only really seemed to stop with customers who travelled to the restaurant because of the guide and on a positive, it also brought a new breed of clientele.
Gary explained: “We noticed an influx of new customers - people who might feel intimidated by the guide coming to the restaurant for the first time and returning.”
He added: “Initially reaction from the trade was surprise and customer’s reactions were mixed - some surprised, some knew about the transition so were not so shocked. Myself and the whole team felt disappointed. Business took a small hit because people do travel for the guide, but one year on, confidence is back in our product and we are going forward and continue progressing.”
Gary agrees with Andrew, consistency is key and when picking themselves up after the news they looked at all aspects of the food, and service and made decisions to strengthen any weakness no matter how small. He has also continued with his own style and said: “Ramon has supported this with his experience giving me honest and constructive feedback on dishes and systems but overall we continue with developing style. We have not got objectives but to make sure our customers are happy and we are busy and if it will happen (being back in the Michelin Guide) one day it will be a gradual process.”
It would be understandable if Gary had lost respect for Michelin after such a major blow but he says he ‘respects the guide and believes in most decisions they make’.
“Of course they are influential in the trade but you cannot cook for them,” he said. “We cook for our customers and if later the star returns it will be for the right reasons.”
Both Gary and Andrew understand how this year’s chefs on the list of deletions will be feeling and they echo each other when they say ‘you have to stay strong’.
Gary said: “My advice would be to just continue with your product. Obviously look at some aspects but if you were worth a star at some point, then not everything is wrong so assess what you were doing against what you are doing. A little analysis is healthy but keep strong and believe in yourself and your team and in what you are doing!”
By Cara Pilkington
@canteencara
