After a short closure, Michelin-starred chef Daniel Clifford’s Flitch of Bacon in Dunmow, Essex, is set to reopen on 27 April under the new leadership of head chef Martin Major. The Staff Canteen caught up with Martin and talked about his plans for the Flitch of Bacon.
Before he was appointed at the Flitch of Bacon, Martin was head chef at L’Autre Pied, where he worked with Michelin-starred executive chef Andy McFadden of world-renowned Pied à Terre which holds one star in the Michelin Guide UK. Martin was trained at The Savoy, L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and was under the tutelage of Michelin-starred chef Phil Howard. Although his impressive career boasts with star-studded references, his roots are much humbler than that.
Daniel Clifford's Flitch of Bacon
“I just started in the normal fashion as a kitchen porter in a pub when I was about 14,” Martin said. “At 16, I was struggling to find a job, and my boss at the pub said ‘you're quite good at starters and desserts, why don’t you try cooking?’ Well then I tried some cooking. I started from there and never looked back. It just fell into place.”
At such a young age, Martin did not have a particular role model until later in his career.
“For a few years I worked for Phil Howard, who has been a very good mentor to me and made meunderstand things on a better level.”
With Martin’s background at The Savoy and L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, he learnt from some of the best.
“I moved to London and learnt the classic French way of cooking, now with influences from around the world. I went travelling for two years, so I use a bit of spice in my cooking, but I like a lighter approach these days.”
We've been following Martin (@MartinThomasMaj) and chef-owner Daniel Clifford (@Midsummerhouse) on Twitter, and the Flitch of Bacon (@flitchofbaconLD) on Instagram, the posts have been keeping us on our toes with their sneak peeks of the new menu.
We asked Martin about the new developing menu, and although it’s still a secret, Martin’s enthusiasm could not be held back.
“It’s essentially a move from pub food to fine dining. It’s going to be a lot more refined but set in a relaxed atmosphere, so people can sit down and enjoy themselves.
A post shared by The Flitch Of Bacon (@the_flitchofbacon) on
“It’ s going to be a 4-4-4 menu – four starters, four mains and four desserts. There’s going to be a tasting menu on there and also a lunch menu. We’re just in the development stage at the moment, so I’m trying out new dishes, putting them out, then we can sit down and talk about them.”
English asparagus, Cornish yarg cured
egg yolk and Sourdough
Although we’re still not sure which of those posts will make it into the finalised menu, what Martin can promise us is that asparagus will have a place on it.
“At the moment, it’ s my favourite ingredient in this season. I think it’ s a very nice product, and it will be on the menu.”
So of course, the seasons will have a huge impact on the menu.
“We will change when the produce changes. We’ll be stable for a little while, like about a month or so, but the set lunch menu will change every week.
“I’m just working with the seasons, with the best quality ingredients available. I’m trying to sort out local people and produce, see what’s around that we can use. I think the menu reflects that. I think you have to work in these seasonal confines to get the best out of the produce.”
Working with Martin, the other creative force that shapes the seasonal menu is the Michelin-starred chef owner of the Flitch of Bacon, Daniel Clifford.
“I think we work well together,” Martin said. “But it takes a while to cultivate a relationship and cooking is a personal thing. I’m enjoying it so far. I think he’s happy with what I’m doing, so I think it’s going very well.”
He added: “Daniel is very hands-on. He comes down a couple of times a week, then we have a chat about what’ s right, and what’s not. We have a team here producing the food, then when he’s here he tries the dishes and we ask ‘what do you think’. He says ‘that’s nice’ or ‘what about we change something there’, and we take it back and refine it a little bit more. He’s definitely parting some of his knowledge on the menu which is very important, I think.”
With a considerable experience behind him, it’s no wonder that Martin was appointed head chef. Although the Flitch of Bacon is a dramatically different scene than central London, Martin was not phased by the change.
“It’s an amazing place. Incredible. It’s a beautiful location. When I was a child growing up I spent a lot of time in the countryside so to me this feels almost like home,” Martin revealed when asked about the appeal of the rural Flitch of Bacon.
As head chef, Martin intends to make the most out of the nearby food markets and food producer community, and build relationships with them.
“It’s very nice to be out in the countryside again. It’s very relaxing. I’m closer to the producers so I can connect with them one to one rather than just speaking to them over the phone, which is fine, you can cultivate relationships through that. But to actually go and see the pig farm down the road, or the lamb farm, you do get that next level of connection with them.”
Although the countryside is abundant in local producers, Martin sees that staffing could be difficult without the star-studded and award-winning pull of London.
“You have to prove to them that you’re going to treat them right, you’re going pay them well, you’re going to look after them and you’re going to teach them,” said Martin as he shared his workplace philosophy.
“You have to inspire the youth of today to want to carry on cooking.”
And who better to inspire the youth than a head chef with such an infectious energy and passion for what he is doing?
When asked about his future, Martin simply said: “I’d say the Flitch of Bacon is my future.
“I just want to progress, cook good food, and build a good client base here. I would like to spend as many years as I can here, perfecting what I do. I think Daniel will be a good influence for me, so I would like to stay at the Flitch.”
By Thao Ly Nguyen
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“It’s very nice to be out in the countryside again. It’s very relaxing. I’m closer to the producers so I can connect with them one to one rather than just speaking to them over the phone, which is fine, you can cultivate relationships through that. But to actually go and see the pig farm down the road, or the lamb farm, you do get that next level of connection with them.”
