From field to fork: how Somerset’s chefs are redefining regional food

In the green pastures of Somerset, a quiet culinary revolution is underway.

From the rolling hills of Bruton to the bountiful coastlines and walled gardens, chefs are channelling the region’s rich agricultural heritage into a dynamic and increasingly modern food movement.

What was once an area known primarily for cider and cheddar is now drawing national attention for its progressive and sustainable dining.

The Staff Canteen spoke to three key figures helping to shape the Somerset identity - Rob Smart of Da Costa in Bruton, Josh Eggleton of The Pony in Chew Magna, and Nicholas Balfe of HOLM in South Petherton - to understand what’s fuelling Somerset’s gastronomic growth.

Rob Smart, head chef, Da Costa, Bruton

For Rob, the journey to head chef at Da Costa wasn’t marked by a single defining moment.

He said: “It’s been a slow build to get to where I am now, I’ve worked at the restaurant a really long time - back when it was the Roth Bar & Grill, and I just fell in love with the kitchen, the grill, the ethos behind it all.”

The restaurant’s concept is rooted in northern Italian traditions, but its soul is unmistakably Somerset, he added: “There are so many similarities between that mountainous region of Italy and this verdant county.

“We use traditional Italian techniques, but our menu is driven by local produce and what Head Gardener Fran grows for us each week. We try to keep things simple and let the ingredients speak.

“We’ve got a wild pantry right on our doorstep, there’s a great history of farming and cheese here, but what’s exciting is how people are taking those old techniques and putting a modern twist on them, Westcombe Dairy is a great example. They’re moving into charcuterie, beer, bread. There’s even a farm near Yeovil making buffalo mozzarella. Somerset is innovating.”

The same can be said of the restaurant scene, Rob explained: “Bruton has become a bit of a hub. Briar’s just opened and they’re doing really interesting stuff. There’s great pubs, relaxed spots like The Chapel... I see it as a healthy ecosystem. If another great place opens and brings more people to town, that’s good for all of us.”

Josh Eggleton MBE, Chef and Co-owner, The Pony, Chew Magna

Josh Eggleton is a key figure in Somerset’s food scene. For him, The Pony is more than just a restaurant – it’s a community-focused project built on sustainability and local roots.

He said: “Our food philosophy is about celebrating localism. We’ve always championed seasonal produce, but since we started growing our own, it’s gone even deeper. It’s not just about quality, it’s about understanding the land, the people behind the food, and making it accessible.”

The gardens play a central role in reducing waste, Josh added: “Chefs care more when they’ve helped grow the ingredients. Anything we don’t use goes into salts, cordials, staff meals, even compost. Sustainability starts in the soil.”

For Josh, it’s also about social sustainability, he added: “We’re supporting our community however we can, offering different levels of access, working with local volunteers, launching Team Canteen and our upcoming FODA festival. Food is at the centre, but the bigger picture is about connection.”

When it comes to the future of fine dining, Josh is candid, he explained: “We need to stop calling it that. Let’s just call it dining. Good food and hospitality should be for everyone. Yes, it needs to be commercially viable, but it must be rooted in where we are, and right now, regional restaurants like ours have a real opportunity to lead the way.”

Josh also stressed the importance of nurturing the next generation and creating inclusive spaces, he explained: “We want The Pony to feel like it belongs to the community, not just to the chefs. Whether it's volunteers in the garden, locals attending events, or partnerships with food education charities, it's about opening the door wider. That’s what makes dining meaningful - when it feeds more than just the appetite.”

Nicholas Balfe, Chef Director, HOLM, South Petherton

After years in London, Nicholas relocated to Somerset in search of space, calm, and closeness to the source. He found it in a former bank in South Petherton, now home to HOLM.

He said: “I’ve always dreamed of opening a restaurant in the countryside, somewhere with a direct connection to the land and our suppliers, the pandemic gave me the push I needed.

“My approach is always ingredient first, dish second, if elderflowers are in bloom, we’ll ask, what can we do with it? If brill’s at its peak, we’ll build a dish around it. Our local veg grower has pea shoots in abundance that need thinning. How about baked brill with peas, pea shoots and elderflower beurre blanc. Inspiration comes from the seasons, but also the mood of the place. 

 “Somerset has such a strong network of growers, farmers, artisans. Our menu reflects that, and so do the rooms above the restaurant, local oak, Somerset-made ceramics, wool from Gather. Sustainability isn’t a bolt-on; it’s woven into everything we do.”

Looking ahead, Nicholas sees the future of hospitality in experiences.

He added: “Dining is becoming polarised, super casual or high-end. We’ve always sat somewhere in the middle, but where we shine is in creating something memorable. Foraging walks, demos, a full weekend itinerary. Despite the financial climate, there’s a market for that, people want to connect.”

A County Coming Into Its Own

If there’s one unifying theme running through Somerset’s culinary story, it’s roots.

These chefs are not only rooted in the landscape, but in the communities, customs, and craft of the county. Whether it’s through farm-to-table cooking, community gardens, sustainable design, or supporting fellow restaurants, there’s a shared sense of pride and place.

With restaurants like Da Costa, The Pony, and HOLM leading the way, Somerset’s food scene isn’t just growing - it’s thriving.

And the rest of the UK is starting to take notice.

Written by Abi Kinsella